Saws

General Information

Saw blades can be found inside the Wood Shop. When using any equipment in the woodshop, make sure to wear all proper safety equipment.

If you have any issues with Wood Shop equipment, the slack channels associated with this space include: #general, #shop-cnc, and #shop-wood

Orientation

The order of this document is to give some basic information of what will happen in the woodshop during the training. This orientation assumes that they have gone through our general space orientation.

Do not operate any power equipment if you are under the influence of anything, in a hurry, are tired, or are not feeling well.

Inspect the equipment before using it.

General Safety Rules of the Woodshop

• Attire
  • Avoid loose clothes and hair
  • Remove rings
  • Wear close-toed shoes
  • Don't wear gloves when operating power tools
• Wear Safety Glasses
• Wear respiratory protection when appropriate
• Wear hearing protection for loud equipment or extended use
• Keep floors clean, clear, and dry
  • Keep extension cords off of the floor when not in use
• Don't throw oily rags in the trash can
• Store finishes in the yellow cabinet
• Don't eat and drink around power tools
• Be aware of people around you when using equipment, and don't approach others while they are using equipment

Equipment

Miter Saw

• The miter saw is used to make rough cuts to length and to quickly cut angles.
• There are end stops on the fence
• You shouldn't need to clamp the workpiece, but can if you prefer.

1. Mark the cut on the piece
2. Match the blade to the mark
3. The left hand holds the piece against the fence. Keep clear of blade
4. Right-hand thumb on safety, squeeze trigger.
5. Dust collection will turn on automatically
6. Bring the blade down and up in one motion
7. If the piece is large, watch out for pinching on the blade.

Have members demonstrate usage with a test cut, if necessary

Resources:Miter Saw for Beginners

Bandsaw

• Larger blades are for resawing, smaller blades can do tighter curves. Bring your own for special use.
• Many adjustments are possible, avoid them unless you are changing the blade.
• The main things to adjust are the fence, guard release lever, and guard height wheel.

1. Make sure the blade is tensioned. With the machine OFF, see if there is any give in the blade. If so, flip the blade tension lever on the back.

2. Adjust the guard to the height of your workpiece

3. Set fence

4. Turn the dust collector on (adjust gates as necessary)

5. Turn bandsaw on

6. Run the piece through the blade, keeping fingers clear. Long pieces may need support from the back.

7. Turn bandsaw off

Have the user demonstrate a test cut
Demonstrate the floor cleanout next to the bandsaw

Table Saw

• Remove the splitter for dado or shallow grooves
• Raise the blade height to just above the piece.
• Lower blade when finished.
• Change the blade between fine finish, rip, and general if you want
  • Inserts match to the saw blade. If changing the blade, use the default insert or matching zero-clearance insert.
  • Threads are the opposite of normal
  • When changing the blade don't lose the bolt and washer down into the saw - a pain to get out
• Unplug the saw and move the extension cord when you are done
• Sweep off the steel top with a brush, not oily hands

General Safety

• Keep left hand away from the blade, preferably away from the board as well
• Use push sticks and blocks.
• Push the piece down and towards the fence with your right hand/block, keep left hand clear
• Don't mess with the offcut until the saw is off

Rip Cut

• Rip cuts are made with the grain of a board (cutting longways)
• Be wary of warped wood. It can pinch the blade and kick back.
• Make sure you are using the splitter on the saw
• Use proper outfeed support for long boards

1. Consider changing to a rip-cut blade (especially if the wood is thick, gnarly, or on the wet side)
2. Line up the fence to the appropriate measurement and lock it down.
3. Adjust blade height to just above the blade
4. Turn dust collection on
5. Turn saw on
6. Stand slightly to the side of the blade (not directly behind it)
7. Using a push block with the right hand to hold the board down and against the fence, push the board until it is cut through.
8. Continue pushing the board against the fence until it is past the blade.
9. don't mess with the offcut
10. turn the saw off

Have the user demonstrate a test cut with scrap MDF or plywood

Cross Cut

• Cross cuts are made when you are cutting against the grain (or across the short dimension of a board)
• Use crosscut sled
• Watch thumbs where the blade comes through the sled
• Make sure the piece and sled are clear of the fence during the operation
• Grooves and dados can also be cut with repeated passes.

1. Turn dust collection on

2. Put sled on the table

3. Raise blade height to just above the workpiece

4. with the saw off, line up the piece with the blade, then hold or clamp the piece against the fence

5. Turn on saw

6. With hands on either side of the sled fence, clear of the blade kerf, slide the sled forward and back in one motion, pulling back as soon as the blade is through the piece.

7. Turn off saw

Have the user demonstrate a test cut with a scrap 2×4

Miter Cut

• Use the Incra miter gauge to cut arbitrary angles. Using the Miter Saw might be simpler.
• Usage is similar to the crosscut sled.

1. Adjust blade height to just above the piece

2. Adjust the miter gauge to correct the angle

3. Measure the piece against the stopped blade and clamp the piece to the miter gauge fence

4. Ensure the table saw fence is clear of the workpiece

5. Hold the fence, gauge, and piece around the miter gauge, which should be to the left of the saw blade

6. Do NOT hold the piece to the right of the blade

7. Move the gauge and piece forward through the blade and back in one motion

Router Table

• No loose clothing, loose hair, or loose jewelry. No rings.
• Produces LOTS of dust. Respiratory protection is recommended. Clean up after yourself.
• Router bits are your responsibility
• Demonstrate loading and unloading of router bits
• Multiple passes will help with overloading the router and burning
• Leave a very small final pass for a clean finish

1. Align the fence with the bit.

2. Set up a fingerboard if downward or sideways pressure will be hard to do safely

3. Turn on dust collection

4. Turn on router

5. Pass material through evenly, with the bit rotating towards you and cutting with the grain

6. Turn router off

Extra

• Sharpening Station
• Sanding
  • Don't push so hard you slow or stop the belt.
  • Use a wax stick to clean the belt
  • Clean up dust afterwards
• Wood Storage - label if wood is claimed, don't leave it for long
• The track saw is useful for safe, straight cuts on weird or large pieces
• The scroll saw is like a slow bandsaw or an automated fret saw. There are some extra blades, bring more if you need different characteristics.
• We have a lot of woodworking books in the library. Check it out!
• The orientation document is on the wiki
• In-progress project storage is ok if it is not in the way and is labeled
• There are lockers available for smaller project storage