Berea Makerspace Wiki - User contributions [en]

Main Page

2024-02-25T18:59:47Z

Bereamakers:

===== Welcome to Berea's Community Makerspace! =====

We have been in our current location ([[https://g.page/berea-makerspace?share|116 Spring Circle Dr - Unit 3]]) since August 2019! The space is growing all the time, with new activity, new equipment, and new capabilities. Come to our [[open_hours|Thursday Open House]] and check us out!

Our space is based on a few founding principles:

*Member Ownership - our paying members make the decisions that run our space.
*Inclusivity - all members should feel welcome, regardless of their background.
*Resiliency - our space is self-supporting for our core operations.
*Community Centric - our space is part of the larger Berea community.

[https://bereamakerspace.org/about/ Our Board] ensures that we maintain tax-exempt status and that we meet our financial obligations. All other decisions about the operation of the space are made by our members.

To become a member, register here: [https://bereamakerspace.org/trial-membership Membership Options] \\
To donate to the space, visit this page: [https://bereamakerspace.org/donate Donation Options]

If you are interested in [[membership]], partnership, or in some other way would like to help us make this community a success, email info@bereamakerspace.org

==== Onboarding ====

An overview of the onboarding process can be seen below. For more details about the orientations, visit the [[orientation|orientations]] page.

[[File:Training_trajectory.png]]

*Tour: You don’t have to tour the space before you join, but if you’d like to see what we have or learn more about us, stop by one of our [[:open_hours|open houses]].

*Join Us: Go to [https://bereamakerspace.org/trial-membership our website] and select the membership that makes sense for you. Once you complete your registration, you’ll get a confirmation email that contains an invite link to our Slack, which is our primary method of communication between makers.

*General Orientation: This is a quick orientation where you will sign some paperwork, go over some of our practices and policies, and get your key. You can go through a [[orientation|general orientation]] at any [[open_hours|open house]] after you [https://bereamakerspace.org/trial-membership join online]. The times of these open houses can be found on our [https://bereamakerspace.org/calendar calendar], but if these times don’t work for you, reach out to info@bereamakerspace.org to schedule a different time. Please register online in advance of the orientation to ensure someone is there to take you through it. Once you have completed the general orientation, you will have 24/7 access to the space.

*Machine Specific Orientation: Some machines or areas require further orientation and training before you can use them. These trainings are listed as "floating" on our [https://bereamakerspace.org/calendar calendar], so when you register for the event, you will be contacted to schedule the orientation.

Main Page

2024-02-25T18:58:02Z

Bereamakers:

===== Welcome to Berea's Community Makerspace! =====

We have been in our current location ([[https://g.page/berea-makerspace?share|116 Spring Circle Dr - Unit 3]]) since August 2019! The space is growing all the time, with new activity, new equipment, and new capabilities. Come to our [[open_hours|Thursday Open House]] and check us out!

Our space is based on a few founding principles:

*Member Ownership - our paying members make the decisions that run our space.
*Inclusivity - all members should feel welcome, regardless of their background.
*Resiliency - our space is self-supporting for our core operations.
*Community Centric - our space is part of the larger Berea community.

[https://bereamakerspace.org/about/ Our Board] ensures that we maintain tax-exempt status and that we meet our financial obligations. All other decisions about the operation of the space are made by our members.

To become a member, register here: [https://bereamakerspace.org/trial-membership Membership Options] \\
To donate to the space, visit this page: [https://bereamakerspace.org/donate Donation Options]

If you are interested in [[membership]], partnership, or in some other way would like to help us make this community a success, email info@bereamakerspace.org

==== Onboarding ====

An overview of the onboarding process can be seen below. For more details about the orientations, visit the [[orientation|orientations]] page.
{Training_trajectory.png}

*Tour: You don’t have to tour the space before you join, but if you’d like to see what we have or learn more about us, stop by one of our [[:open_hours|open houses]].

*Join Us: Go to [https://bereamakerspace.org/trial-membership our website] and select the membership that makes sense for you. Once you complete your registration, you’ll get a confirmation email that contains an invite link to our Slack, which is our primary method of communication between makers.

*General Orientation: This is a quick orientation where you will sign some paperwork, go over some of our practices and policies, and get your key. You can go through a [[orientation|general orientation]] at any [[open_hours|open house]] after you [https://bereamakerspace.org/trial-membership join online]. The times of these open houses can be found on our [https://bereamakerspace.org/calendar calendar], but if these times don’t work for you, reach out to info@bereamakerspace.org to schedule a different time. Please register online in advance of the orientation to ensure someone is there to take you through it. Once you have completed the general orientation, you will have 24/7 access to the space.

*Machine Specific Orientation: Some machines or areas require further orientation and training before you can use them. These trainings are listed as "floating" on our [https://bereamakerspace.org/calendar calendar], so when you register for the event, you will be contacted to schedule the orientation.

File:Training trajectory.png

2024-02-25T18:56:45Z

Bereamakers:

About

2024-02-25T18:04:25Z

Bereamakers: Created page with "Our space is based on a few founding principles: * **Member Ownership** - our paying members make the decisions that run our space. * **Inclusivity** - all members should feel welcome, regardless of their background. * **Resiliency** - our space is self-supporting for our core operations. * **Community Centric** - our space is part of the larger Berea community. Our Board ensures that we maintain tax-exempt status and tha..."

Our space is based on a few founding principles:

* **Member Ownership** - our paying members make the decisions that run our space.
* **Inclusivity** - all members should feel welcome, regardless of their background.
* **Resiliency** - our space is self-supporting for our core operations.
* **Community Centric** - our space is part of the larger Berea community.

[[https://bereamakerspace.org/about/|Our Board]] ensures that we maintain tax-exempt status and that we meet our financial obligations. All other decisions about the operation of the space are made by our members.

To become a member, register here: [[https://bereamakerspace.wildapricot.org/join-us]] \\
To donate to the space, visit this page: [[https://bereamakerspace.wildapricot.org/Donate]]

If you are interested in [[membership]], or would like to help us make this a reality, email info@bereamakerspace.org

Financial upkeep

2024-02-25T17:02:51Z

Bereamakers: Created page with "We use Quickbooks Online to manage our finances. Our bank accounts are at Park Community Credit Union. ===== Annual Tasks ===== * Our fiscal year ends July 31st * We do not have to file taxes unless we have over 50k in revenue ===== Monthly Tasks ===== === Second day of the month: === * Review the automated reports that are emailed to the board from QuickBooks. * Add Financial information to the wiki, both the main page and the last months details. * Reconcile in Qui..."

We use Quickbooks Online to manage our finances. Our bank accounts are at Park Community Credit Union.

===== Annual Tasks =====

* Our fiscal year ends July 31st
* We do not have to file taxes unless we have over 50k in revenue

===== Monthly Tasks =====

=== Second day of the month: ===
* Review the automated reports that are emailed to the board from QuickBooks.
* Add Financial information to the wiki, both the main page and the last months details.
* Reconcile in Quickbooks up to the beginning of the previous month

=== Last day of the month: ===
These tasks need to happen on the last day so that the reports generated on the first day are accurate.

* Review and clear the pending Quickbooks transactions, editing and splitting as necessary.
* Transfer donated money for specific funds to Savings and update wiki.
* Transfer monthly savings amount for savings goals to Savings and update wiki.
* Pay rent

Membership

2024-02-25T17:01:33Z

Bereamakers:

Membership in our space includes 24/7 access to all [[equipment|shared equipment]] and a voice in the direction of the space.

Individual membership is $35 per month.
Family membership is $55 per month, and includes all adults in your household.

Both membership levels allow you to bring a guest or children, provided they remain under your supervision. All members and guests must have a signed waiver on file.

Members must be 18, agree to our [[policies]], attend an [[orientation|orientation session]], and sign a waiver before starting use of the space.

To sign up, go to https://bereamakerspace.org/join-us

Cash Payments:
If you are unable to pay with a credit or debit card you can pay one of our board members monthly with cash. Currently, there is no additional cost for this service.

Events

2024-02-25T17:01:18Z

Bereamakers: Created page with "== Weekly Members' Meeting == Every Tuesday from 6:30-7:00 is our members' meeting. This is where we can update folks on the status of our space, pitch projects, have a show and tell, and hear feedback about space operations. == Weekly Open House == Every Tuesday from 7:00-8:00 is an open house. Come on down and check us out at 116 Spring Circle Dr, Berea, KY!"

== Weekly Members' Meeting ==
Every Tuesday from 6:30-7:00 is our members' meeting. This is where we can update folks on the status of our space, pitch projects, have a show and tell, and hear feedback about space operations.

== Weekly Open House ==
Every Tuesday from 7:00-8:00 is an open house. Come on down and check us out at 116 Spring Circle Dr, Berea, KY!

Membership

2024-02-25T17:01:10Z

Bereamakers:

Membership in our space includes 24/7 access to all [[equipment|shared equipment]] and a voice in the direction of the space.

Individual membership is $35 per month.
Family membership is $55 per month, and includes all adults in your household.

Both membership levels allow you to bring a guest or children, provided they remain under your supervision. All members and guests must have a signed waiver on file.

Members must be 18, agree to our [[policies]], attend an [[orientation|orientation session]], and sign a waiver before starting use of the space.

To sign up, go to https://bereamakerspace.org/join-us

[[events]]

Cash Payments:
If you are unable to pay with a credit or debit card you can pay one of our board members monthly with cash. Currently, there is no additional cost for this service.

Membership

2024-02-25T17:00:38Z

Bereamakers:

Membership in our space includes 24/7 access to all [[equipment|shared equipment]] and a voice in the direction of the space.

Individual membership is $35 per month.
Family membership is $55 per month, and includes all adults in your household.

Both membership levels allow you to bring a guest or children, provided they remain under your supervision. All members and guests must have a signed waiver on file.

Members must be 18, agree to our [[policies]], attend an [[orientation|orientation session]], and sign a waiver before starting use of the space.

To sign up, go to https://bereamakerspace.org/join-us

[[meetings]]

Cash Payments:
If you are unable to pay with a credit or debit card you can pay one of our board members monthly with cash. Currently, there is no additional cost for this service.

Financials

2024-02-25T16:57:50Z

Bereamakers:

*Checking Balance as of 11/1/2022:** $48,290.52

**Savings Balance as of 11/1/2022:** $6,539
* Annual Insurance Premiums: $770 / $1,321.94 (110 / month)
* Semi-annual Wild Apricot Pre-pay: $969 / 1,224 (51 / month)
* 3 months operating expenses: $4,500 / $4,500
* EOY Accounting: $300 / $300
* CNC Improvements: $0 / $0

**Upcoming Large Expenses:**
* November Rent $750
* Purpose in Action purchases ~ $35,000

**Monthly Finances**

* [[financials_nov_2022|Nov 2022]]
* ... quickbooks is now caught up
* [[financials_jan_2022|Jan 2022]]
* ... bank website changed and quickbooks integration broke
* [[financials_jul_2021|Jul 2021]]
* [[financials_jun_2021|Jun 2021]]
* [[financials_may_2021|May 2021]]
* [[financials_apr_2021|Apr 2021]]
* [[financials_mar_2021|Mar 2021]]
* ...
* [[financials_sep_2020|Sep 2020]]
* [[financials_aug_2020|Aug 2020]]
* ...
* [[financials_apr_2020|Apr 2020]]
* [[financials_mar_2020|Mar 2020]]
* [[financials_feb_2020|Feb 2020]]
* ...
* [[financials_sep_2019|Sep 2019]]
* [[financials_aug_2019|Aug 2019]]

[[financial_upkeep|Financial Upkeep Details]]

Financials

2024-02-25T16:57:23Z

Bereamakers: Created page with "**Checking Balance as of 11/1/2022:** $48,290.52 **Savings Balance as of 11/1/2022:** $6,539 * Annual Insurance Premiums: $770 / $1,321.94 (110 / month) * Semi-annual Wild Apricot Pre-pay: $969 / 1,224 (51 / month) * 3 months operating expenses: $4,500 / $4,500 * EOY Accounting: $300 / $300 * CNC Improvements: $0 / $0 **Upcoming Large Expenses:** * November Rent $750 * Purpose in Action purchases ~ $35,000 **Monthly Fi..."

**Checking Balance as of 11/1/2022:** $48,290.52

**Savings Balance as of 11/1/2022:** $6,539
* Annual Insurance Premiums: $770 / $1,321.94 (110 / month)
* Semi-annual Wild Apricot Pre-pay: $969 / 1,224 (51 / month)
* 3 months operating expenses: $4,500 / $4,500
* EOY Accounting: $300 / $300
* CNC Improvements: $0 / $0

**Upcoming Large Expenses:**
* November Rent $750
* Purpose in Action purchases ~ $35,000

**Monthly Finances**

* [[financials_nov_2022|Nov 2022]]
* ... quickbooks is now caught up
* [[financials_jan_2022|Jan 2022]]
* ... bank website changed and quickbooks integration broke
* [[financials_jul_2021|Jul 2021]]
* [[financials_jun_2021|Jun 2021]]
* [[financials_may_2021|May 2021]]
* [[financials_apr_2021|Apr 2021]]
* [[financials_mar_2021|Mar 2021]]
* ...
* [[financials_sep_2020|Sep 2020]]
* [[financials_aug_2020|Aug 2020]]
* ...
* [[financials_apr_2020|Apr 2020]]
* [[financials_mar_2020|Mar 2020]]
* [[financials_feb_2020|Feb 2020]]
* ...
* [[financials_sep_2019|Sep 2019]]
* [[financials_aug_2019|Aug 2019]]

[[financial_upkeep|Financial Upkeep Details]]

Meetings

2024-02-25T16:56:38Z

Bereamakers:

* [[Board - 6.10.2021]]
* [[Makerspace Event Planning with Partnering with Abi - 4.18.2021]]
* [[Makerspace Planning - 11.17.2020]]
* [[Makerspace Planning - 11.10.2020]]
* [[Makerspace Planning - 10.27.2020]]
* [[Board - 9.29.2020]]
* [[Equipment Purchase Discussion - 7.3.2020]]
* [[Board - 2.28.2020]]
* [[Board - 12.20.2019]]
* [[Member - 9.17.2019]]
* [[Member - 9.10.2019]]
* [[Member - 9.3.2019]]
* [[Member - 9.3.2019]]
* [[Member - 8.27.2019]]
* [[Board - 8.23.2019]]
* [[Member - 8.20.2019]]
* [[Board - 8.16.2019]]
* [[Member - 8.13.2019]]
* [[Board - 5.24.2019]]
* [[Board - 3.29.2019]]
* [[Board - 3.13.2019]]
* [[Board - 11.15.2018]]
* [[Board - 7.27.2018]]

Meetings

2024-02-25T16:55:55Z

Bereamakers: Created page with " * Board - 6.10.2021 * Makerspace Event Planning with Partnering with Abi - 4.18.2021 * Makerspace Planning - 11.17.2020 * Makerspace Planning - 11.10.2020 * Makerspace Planning - 10.27.2020 * Board - 9.29.2020 * Equipment Purchase Discussion - 7.3.2020 * Board - 2.28.2020 * Board - 12.20.2019 * Member - 9.17.2019 * Member - 9.10.2019 * Member - 9.3.2019 * Member - 9.3.2019 * Member - 8.27.2..."

Board-roles

2024-02-25T16:55:13Z

Bereamakers: Created page with "This page is for keeping track of the board and organizational roles that we have, and what the expectations are for each role. === President === * Public face of the organization. Contact point for partner organizations and new relationships. * Responsible for annual report, Kentucky organization statements, other nonprofit requirements * Ensure the Board and organization are operating appropriately and as expected by the Bylaws * With the Secretary, the President sig..."

This page is for keeping track of the board and organizational roles that we have, and what the expectations are for each role.

=== President ===
* Public face of the organization. Contact point for partner organizations and new relationships.
* Responsible for annual report, Kentucky organization statements, other nonprofit requirements
* Ensure the Board and organization are operating appropriately and as expected by the Bylaws
* With the Secretary, the President signs all documents that require an officer's signature
* Assumes the role of Treasurer in the Treasurer's absence

=== Secretary ===
* Plans and sends out notices for meetings
* Keep minutes and notes for meetings
* Publish meeting notes on the wiki
* Organize Board of Director elections
* With the President, the Secretary signs all documents that require an officer's signature

=== Treasurer ===
* Ensure financial obligations are being met (rent, utilities, etc)
* Monitor and control usage of corporate checks, debit cards, and credit cards
* Process and categorize Quickbooks transactions
* Reconcile statements in Quickbooks
* Prepare financial reports for board and outside entities
* Publish financial summary to wiki
* Participate in any necessary financial audits

=== All Board Members ===
* Be present for board meetings whenever possible
* Put energy into the space, whether through running orientations and trainings, organizing classes, public outreach and marketing, maintaining the physical space and equipment, etc.

== What might be missing? ==
* Coordinating committees and teams we have talked about, like harassment response and safety team.
* A fundraising and grant-writing role
* Makerspace equipment and maintenance management
* These don't necessarily have to be board roles, either. They could be corporate positions.

== From the Bylaws: ==
5.4 PRESIDENT. The President serves as a representative of Berea Makerspace to the public, and in all functions where a President may be called for by law or any other outside requirements. The President is responsible for making sure that the corporation files its annual report, Kentucky charitable organization statements, and any other papers required to maintain legal nonprofit status by the law of Kentucky or Federal law. In the absence of a Treasurer, the President will also serve as the chief financial officer.

5.5 SECRETARY. The Secretary will be responsible for sending out notices for all meetings, keeping minutes for all meetings, and making available copies of meeting minutes at the registered location.

6.1 BINDING POWER. No officer, agent, or any other person or company has the right or power to bind the Corporation by pledge, agreement, contract, or any other means without the expressed written permission of the Board of Directors.

6.2 SIGNATORIES. With authorization from the Board of Directors, the President and Secretary will sign all documents, including all financial documents, that require the signature or endorsement of a corporate officer.

Structure

2024-02-25T16:53:48Z

Bereamakers:

We are a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization.

Our [https://bereamakerspace.org/about/ board] is concerned with keeping the makerspace operating and in good standing.

The decisions about what to do with the space are made by our members. Decisions that affect the whole membership will be voted on no sooner than a week after the subject is introduced. Members will be informed of any impending vote.

[[board-roles|Board and Officer Roles]]

[https://bereamakerspace.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Signed-Makerspace-Bylaws.pdf Berea Makerspace Bylaws]

Structure

2024-02-25T16:53:09Z

Bereamakers:

We are a 501(%%c%%)(3) non-profit organization.

Our [https://bereamakerspace.org/about/ board] is concerned with keeping the makerspace operating and in good standing.

The decisions about what to do with the space are made by our members. Decisions that affect the whole membership will be voted on no sooner than a week after the subject is introduced. Members will be informed of any impending vote.

[[board-roles|Board and Officer Roles]]

[https://bereamakerspace.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Signed-Makerspace-Bylaws.pdf Berea Makerspace Bylaws]

Structure

2024-02-25T16:53:02Z

Bereamakers:

We are a 501(%%c%%)(3) non-profit organization.

Our [https://bereamakerspace.org/about/ board] is concerned with keeping the makerspace operating and in good standing.

The decisions about what to do with the space are made by our members. Decisions that affect the whole membership will be voted on no sooner than a week after the subject is introduced. Members will be informed of any impending vote.

[board-roles|Board and Officer Roles]

[https://bereamakerspace.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Signed-Makerspace-Bylaws.pdf Berea Makerspace Bylaws]

Structure

2024-02-25T16:52:23Z

Bereamakers:

We are a 501(%%c%%)(3) non-profit organization.

Our [https://bereamakerspace.org/about/ | board] is concerned with keeping the makerspace operating and in good standing.

The decisions about what to do with the space are made by our members. Decisions that affect the whole membership will be voted on no sooner than a week after the subject is introduced. Members will be informed of any impending vote.

[board-roles|Board and Officer Roles]

[https://bereamakerspace.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Signed-Makerspace-Bylaws.pdf Berea Makerspace Bylaws]

Structure

2024-02-25T16:52:10Z

Bereamakers: Created page with "We are a 501(%%c%%)(3) non-profit organization. Our [https://bereamakerspace.org/about/ | board] is concerned with keeping the makerspace operating and in good standing. The decisions about what to do with the space are made by our members. Decisions that affect the whole membership will be voted on no sooner than a week after the subject is introduced. Members will be informed of any impending vote. [board-roles Board and Officer Roles] [https://bereamakerspace.org/..."

We are a 501(%%c%%)(3) non-profit organization.

Our [https://bereamakerspace.org/about/ | board] is concerned with keeping the makerspace operating and in good standing.

The decisions about what to do with the space are made by our members. Decisions that affect the whole membership will be voted on no sooner than a week after the subject is introduced. Members will be informed of any impending vote.

[board-roles Board and Officer Roles]

[https://bereamakerspace.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Signed-Makerspace-Bylaws.pdf Berea Makerspace Bylaws]

Welding-orientation

2024-02-25T16:50:25Z

Bereamakers: /* MIG Welding / GMAW */

====== Welding Safety Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to safety and orientation documentation we'd like you to read before attending our welding classes. This gives us more time to focus on setup and technique while class.

===== General Safety =====
* **Attire**
** Welding helmets are always required when operating the welder
*** Weld arcs are brighter than the sun - any extended viewing of these can cause eye damage and peeling
*** We currently have two auto darkening helmets, and one manual
*** Position the welding screen between you and others in the space, and announce when you're beginning welding
**** "EYES" is a common refrain
*** Face shields for grinding or cleaning up metal are also available
** Welding jackets and gloves are available for use
*** Welding processes often produce flying shards of molten metal, which hurt a lot on bare skin and flammable clothing
*** Rolled up sleeves and your hair are painful locations for this spatter to nestle into
*** Please take the appropriate precautions when deciding how to gear yourself for welding
{{ :weldingsafetyequipment-1.png |}}

* **Electrical Shock** (from https://ohsonline.com/Articles/2014/04/01/Be-Prepared.aspx)
** Electric shock is one of the most serious and immediate risks facing a welder. Electric shock can lead to severe injury or death, either from the shock itself or from a fall caused by the reaction to a shock
** Electric shock occurs when welders touch two metal objects that have a voltage between them, thereby inserting themselves into the electrical circuit
** The most common type of electric shock is secondary voltage shock from an arc welding circuit, which ranges from 20 to 100 volts
** Never to touch the electrode or metal parts of the electrode holder with skin or welding clothing
** Insulate yourself from the work and ground. No bare feet, no wet clothing
** Inspect the electrode holder and cabling for damage

* **Fumes and Dust**
** Overexposure to welding fumes and gases can be hazardous to your health
** Create adequate ventilation when operating the welder at the space - open garage door, turn on exhaust in the wood shop side
** Consider dust and debris created when grinding and preparing material
*** If others are at the space, doing this outside will help everyone

* **Fire**
** The welding arc creates extreme temperatures and may pose a significant fire and explosion hazard if safe practices are not followed
** Spatter can reach up to 35 feet away from the welding space
** Inspect the work area for any flammable materials and remove them from the area

===== Welding Processes =====
Feel free to watch any or all of these videos before class. These give you a general idea about the welding process being taught. **These in no way substitute attending an orientation class.**

==== Stick Welding / SMAW ====
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP8hh0yQibM Arc Welding 2 by Steve Bleile (Eric's recommendation)]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MKuUICV6-c Weld.com's STICK WELDING 101]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fUAHkUfTps WELDING: THE BEST WAY TO LEARN! (CW:Language)]

==== MIG Welding / GMAW ====
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlmOb1tIJ4Y Weld.com's Beginners Guide to MIG Welding]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bu_EsAFJUTg MIG WELDER MISTAKES (CW:Language)]

Welding-orientation

2024-02-25T16:50:09Z

Bereamakers: /* Stick Welding / SMAW */

====== Welding Safety Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to safety and orientation documentation we'd like you to read before attending our welding classes. This gives us more time to focus on setup and technique while class.

===== General Safety =====
* **Attire**
** Welding helmets are always required when operating the welder
*** Weld arcs are brighter than the sun - any extended viewing of these can cause eye damage and peeling
*** We currently have two auto darkening helmets, and one manual
*** Position the welding screen between you and others in the space, and announce when you're beginning welding
**** "EYES" is a common refrain
*** Face shields for grinding or cleaning up metal are also available
** Welding jackets and gloves are available for use
*** Welding processes often produce flying shards of molten metal, which hurt a lot on bare skin and flammable clothing
*** Rolled up sleeves and your hair are painful locations for this spatter to nestle into
*** Please take the appropriate precautions when deciding how to gear yourself for welding
{{ :weldingsafetyequipment-1.png |}}

* **Electrical Shock** (from https://ohsonline.com/Articles/2014/04/01/Be-Prepared.aspx)
** Electric shock is one of the most serious and immediate risks facing a welder. Electric shock can lead to severe injury or death, either from the shock itself or from a fall caused by the reaction to a shock
** Electric shock occurs when welders touch two metal objects that have a voltage between them, thereby inserting themselves into the electrical circuit
** The most common type of electric shock is secondary voltage shock from an arc welding circuit, which ranges from 20 to 100 volts
** Never to touch the electrode or metal parts of the electrode holder with skin or welding clothing
** Insulate yourself from the work and ground. No bare feet, no wet clothing
** Inspect the electrode holder and cabling for damage

* **Fumes and Dust**
** Overexposure to welding fumes and gases can be hazardous to your health
** Create adequate ventilation when operating the welder at the space - open garage door, turn on exhaust in the wood shop side
** Consider dust and debris created when grinding and preparing material
*** If others are at the space, doing this outside will help everyone

* **Fire**
** The welding arc creates extreme temperatures and may pose a significant fire and explosion hazard if safe practices are not followed
** Spatter can reach up to 35 feet away from the welding space
** Inspect the work area for any flammable materials and remove them from the area

===== Welding Processes =====
Feel free to watch any or all of these videos before class. These give you a general idea about the welding process being taught. **These in no way substitute attending an orientation class.**

==== Stick Welding / SMAW ====
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP8hh0yQibM Arc Welding 2 by Steve Bleile (Eric's recommendation)]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MKuUICV6-c Weld.com's STICK WELDING 101]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fUAHkUfTps WELDING: THE BEST WAY TO LEARN! (CW:Language)]

==== MIG Welding / GMAW ====
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlmOb1tIJ4Y|Weld.com's Beginners Guide to MIG Welding]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bu_EsAFJUTg|MIG WELDER MISTAKES (CW:Language)]]

Welding-orientation

2024-02-25T16:50:00Z

Bereamakers: /* Stick Welding / SMAW */

====== Welding Safety Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to safety and orientation documentation we'd like you to read before attending our welding classes. This gives us more time to focus on setup and technique while class.

===== General Safety =====
* **Attire**
** Welding helmets are always required when operating the welder
*** Weld arcs are brighter than the sun - any extended viewing of these can cause eye damage and peeling
*** We currently have two auto darkening helmets, and one manual
*** Position the welding screen between you and others in the space, and announce when you're beginning welding
**** "EYES" is a common refrain
*** Face shields for grinding or cleaning up metal are also available
** Welding jackets and gloves are available for use
*** Welding processes often produce flying shards of molten metal, which hurt a lot on bare skin and flammable clothing
*** Rolled up sleeves and your hair are painful locations for this spatter to nestle into
*** Please take the appropriate precautions when deciding how to gear yourself for welding
{{ :weldingsafetyequipment-1.png |}}

* **Electrical Shock** (from https://ohsonline.com/Articles/2014/04/01/Be-Prepared.aspx)
** Electric shock is one of the most serious and immediate risks facing a welder. Electric shock can lead to severe injury or death, either from the shock itself or from a fall caused by the reaction to a shock
** Electric shock occurs when welders touch two metal objects that have a voltage between them, thereby inserting themselves into the electrical circuit
** The most common type of electric shock is secondary voltage shock from an arc welding circuit, which ranges from 20 to 100 volts
** Never to touch the electrode or metal parts of the electrode holder with skin or welding clothing
** Insulate yourself from the work and ground. No bare feet, no wet clothing
** Inspect the electrode holder and cabling for damage

* **Fumes and Dust**
** Overexposure to welding fumes and gases can be hazardous to your health
** Create adequate ventilation when operating the welder at the space - open garage door, turn on exhaust in the wood shop side
** Consider dust and debris created when grinding and preparing material
*** If others are at the space, doing this outside will help everyone

* **Fire**
** The welding arc creates extreme temperatures and may pose a significant fire and explosion hazard if safe practices are not followed
** Spatter can reach up to 35 feet away from the welding space
** Inspect the work area for any flammable materials and remove them from the area

===== Welding Processes =====
Feel free to watch any or all of these videos before class. These give you a general idea about the welding process being taught. **These in no way substitute attending an orientation class.**

==== Stick Welding / SMAW ====
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP8hh0yQibM Arc Welding 2 by Steve Bleile (Eric's recommendation)]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MKuUICV6-c Weld.com's STICK WELDING 101]
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fUAHkUfTps WELDING: THE BEST WAY TO LEARN! (CW:Language)]

==== MIG Welding / GMAW ====
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlmOb1tIJ4Y|Weld.com's Beginners Guide to MIG Welding]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bu_EsAFJUTg|MIG WELDER MISTAKES (CW:Language)]]

Welding-orientation

2024-02-25T16:49:19Z

Bereamakers: /* General Safety */

====== Welding Safety Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to safety and orientation documentation we'd like you to read before attending our welding classes. This gives us more time to focus on setup and technique while class.

===== General Safety =====
* **Attire**
** Welding helmets are always required when operating the welder
*** Weld arcs are brighter than the sun - any extended viewing of these can cause eye damage and peeling
*** We currently have two auto darkening helmets, and one manual
*** Position the welding screen between you and others in the space, and announce when you're beginning welding
**** "EYES" is a common refrain
*** Face shields for grinding or cleaning up metal are also available
** Welding jackets and gloves are available for use
*** Welding processes often produce flying shards of molten metal, which hurt a lot on bare skin and flammable clothing
*** Rolled up sleeves and your hair are painful locations for this spatter to nestle into
*** Please take the appropriate precautions when deciding how to gear yourself for welding
{{ :weldingsafetyequipment-1.png |}}

* **Electrical Shock** (from https://ohsonline.com/Articles/2014/04/01/Be-Prepared.aspx)
** Electric shock is one of the most serious and immediate risks facing a welder. Electric shock can lead to severe injury or death, either from the shock itself or from a fall caused by the reaction to a shock
** Electric shock occurs when welders touch two metal objects that have a voltage between them, thereby inserting themselves into the electrical circuit
** The most common type of electric shock is secondary voltage shock from an arc welding circuit, which ranges from 20 to 100 volts
** Never to touch the electrode or metal parts of the electrode holder with skin or welding clothing
** Insulate yourself from the work and ground. No bare feet, no wet clothing
** Inspect the electrode holder and cabling for damage

* **Fumes and Dust**
** Overexposure to welding fumes and gases can be hazardous to your health
** Create adequate ventilation when operating the welder at the space - open garage door, turn on exhaust in the wood shop side
** Consider dust and debris created when grinding and preparing material
*** If others are at the space, doing this outside will help everyone

* **Fire**
** The welding arc creates extreme temperatures and may pose a significant fire and explosion hazard if safe practices are not followed
** Spatter can reach up to 35 feet away from the welding space
** Inspect the work area for any flammable materials and remove them from the area

===== Welding Processes =====
Feel free to watch any or all of these videos before class. These give you a general idea about the welding process being taught. **These in no way substitute attending an orientation class.**

==== Stick Welding / SMAW ====
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP8hh0yQibM|Arc Welding 2 by Steve Bleile (Eric's recommendation)]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MKuUICV6-c|Weld.com's STICK WELDING 101]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fUAHkUfTps|WELDING: THE BEST WAY TO LEARN! (CW:Language)]]

==== MIG Welding / GMAW ====
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlmOb1tIJ4Y|Weld.com's Beginners Guide to MIG Welding]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bu_EsAFJUTg|MIG WELDER MISTAKES (CW:Language)]]

Welding-orientation

2024-02-25T16:49:01Z

Bereamakers: /* General Safety */

====== Welding Safety Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to safety and orientation documentation we'd like you to read before attending our welding classes. This gives us more time to focus on setup and technique while class.

===== General Safety =====
* **Attire**
** Welding helmets are always required when operating the welder
*** Weld arcs are brighter than the sun - any extended viewing of these can cause eye damage and peeling
*** We currently have two auto darkening helmets, and one manual
*** Position the welding screen between you and others in the space, and announce when you're beginning welding
**** "EYES" is a common refrain
*** Face shields for grinding or cleaning up metal are also available
** Welding jackets and gloves are available for use
*** Welding processes often produce flying shards of molten metal, which hurt a lot on bare skin and flammable clothing
*** Rolled up sleeves and your hair are painful locations for this spatter to nestle into
*** Please take the appropriate precautions when deciding how to gear yourself for welding
{{ :weldingsafetyequipment-1.png |}}

* **Electrical Shock** (from [https://ohsonline.com/Articles/2014/04/01/Be-Prepared.aspx])
** Electric shock is one of the most serious and immediate risks facing a welder. Electric shock can lead to severe injury or death, either from the shock itself or from a fall caused by the reaction to a shock
** Electric shock occurs when welders touch two metal objects that have a voltage between them, thereby inserting themselves into the electrical circuit
** The most common type of electric shock is secondary voltage shock from an arc welding circuit, which ranges from 20 to 100 volts
** Never to touch the electrode or metal parts of the electrode holder with skin or welding clothing
** Insulate yourself from the work and ground. No bare feet, no wet clothing
** Inspect the electrode holder and cabling for damage

* **Fumes and Dust**
** Overexposure to welding fumes and gases can be hazardous to your health
** Create adequate ventilation when operating the welder at the space - open garage door, turn on exhaust in the wood shop side
** Consider dust and debris created when grinding and preparing material
*** If others are at the space, doing this outside will help everyone

* **Fire**
** The welding arc creates extreme temperatures and may pose a significant fire and explosion hazard if safe practices are not followed
** Spatter can reach up to 35 feet away from the welding space
** Inspect the work area for any flammable materials and remove them from the area

===== Welding Processes =====
Feel free to watch any or all of these videos before class. These give you a general idea about the welding process being taught. **These in no way substitute attending an orientation class.**

==== Stick Welding / SMAW ====
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP8hh0yQibM|Arc Welding 2 by Steve Bleile (Eric's recommendation)]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MKuUICV6-c|Weld.com's STICK WELDING 101]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fUAHkUfTps|WELDING: THE BEST WAY TO LEARN! (CW:Language)]]

==== MIG Welding / GMAW ====
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlmOb1tIJ4Y|Weld.com's Beginners Guide to MIG Welding]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bu_EsAFJUTg|MIG WELDER MISTAKES (CW:Language)]]

Welding-orientation

2024-02-25T16:48:44Z

Bereamakers: /* General Safety */

====== Welding Safety Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to safety and orientation documentation we'd like you to read before attending our welding classes. This gives us more time to focus on setup and technique while class.

===== General Safety =====
* **Attire**
** Welding helmets are always required when operating the welder
*** Weld arcs are brighter than the sun - any extended viewing of these can cause eye damage and peeling
*** We currently have two auto darkening helmets, and one manual
*** Position the welding screen between you and others in the space, and announce when you're beginning welding
**** "EYES" is a common refrain
*** Face shields for grinding or cleaning up metal are also available
** Welding jackets and gloves are available for use
*** Welding processes often produce flying shards of molten metal, which hurt a lot on bare skin and flammable clothing
*** Rolled up sleeves and your hair are painful locations for this spatter to nestle into
*** Please take the appropriate precautions when deciding how to gear yourself for welding
{{ :weldingsafetyequipment-1.png |}}

* **Electrical Shock** (from [[https://ohsonline.com/Articles/2014/04/01/Be-Prepared.aspx]])
** Electric shock is one of the most serious and immediate risks facing a welder. Electric shock can lead to severe injury or death, either from the shock itself or from a fall caused by the reaction to a shock
** Electric shock occurs when welders touch two metal objects that have a voltage between them, thereby inserting themselves into the electrical circuit
** The most common type of electric shock is secondary voltage shock from an arc welding circuit, which ranges from 20 to 100 volts
** Never to touch the electrode or metal parts of the electrode holder with skin or welding clothing
** Insulate yourself from the work and ground. No bare feet, no wet clothing
** Inspect the electrode holder and cabling for damage

* **Fumes and Dust**
** Overexposure to welding fumes and gases can be hazardous to your health
** Create adequate ventilation when operating the welder at the space - open garage door, turn on exhaust in the wood shop side
** Consider dust and debris created when grinding and preparing material
*** If others are at the space, doing this outside will help everyone

* **Fire**
** The welding arc creates extreme temperatures and may pose a significant fire and explosion hazard if safe practices are not followed
** Spatter can reach up to 35 feet away from the welding space
** Inspect the work area for any flammable materials and remove them from the area

===== Welding Processes =====
Feel free to watch any or all of these videos before class. These give you a general idea about the welding process being taught. **These in no way substitute attending an orientation class.**

==== Stick Welding / SMAW ====
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP8hh0yQibM|Arc Welding 2 by Steve Bleile (Eric's recommendation)]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MKuUICV6-c|Weld.com's STICK WELDING 101]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fUAHkUfTps|WELDING: THE BEST WAY TO LEARN! (CW:Language)]]

==== MIG Welding / GMAW ====
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlmOb1tIJ4Y|Weld.com's Beginners Guide to MIG Welding]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bu_EsAFJUTg|MIG WELDER MISTAKES (CW:Language)]]

Welding-orientation

2024-02-25T16:47:19Z

Bereamakers: Created page with "====== Welding Safety Orientation ====== This page will include video and textual links to safety and orientation documentation we'd like you to read before attending our welding classes. This gives us more time to focus on setup and technique while class. ===== General Safety ===== * **Attire** ** Welding helmets are always required when operating the welder *** Weld arcs are brighter than the sun - any extended viewing of these can cause eye damage and peeling *** We..."

====== Welding Safety Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to safety and orientation documentation we'd like you to read before attending our welding classes. This gives us more time to focus on setup and technique while class.

===== General Safety =====
* **Attire**
** Welding helmets are always required when operating the welder
*** Weld arcs are brighter than the sun - any extended viewing of these can cause eye damage and peeling
*** We currently have two auto darkening helmets, and one manual
*** Position the welding screen between you and others in the space, and announce when you're beginning welding
**** "EYES" is a common refrain
*** Face shields for grinding or cleaning up metal are also available
** Welding jackets and gloves are available for use
*** Welding processes often produce flying shards of molten metal, which hurt a lot on bare skin and flammable clothing
*** Rolled up sleeves and your hair are painful locations for this spatter to nestle into
*** Please take the appropriate precautions when deciding how to gear yourself for welding
{{ :weldingsafetyequipment-1.png |}}

* **Electrical Shock** (from [[https://ohsonline.com/Articles/2014/04/01/Be-Prepared.aspx]])
* Electric shock is one of the most serious and immediate risks facing a welder. Electric shock can lead to severe injury or death, either from the shock itself or from a fall caused by the reaction to a shock
* Electric shock occurs when welders touch two metal objects that have a voltage between them, thereby inserting themselves into the electrical circuit
* The most common type of electric shock is secondary voltage shock from an arc welding circuit, which ranges from 20 to 100 volts
* Never to touch the electrode or metal parts of the electrode holder with skin or welding clothing
* Insulate yourself from the work and ground. No bare feet, no wet clothing
* Inspect the electrode holder and cabling for damage

* **Fumes and Dust**
* Overexposure to welding fumes and gases can be hazardous to your health
* Create adequate ventilation when operating the welder at the space - open garage door, turn on exhaust in the wood shop side
* Consider dust and debris created when grinding and preparing material
* If others are at the space, doing this outside will help everyone

* **Fire**
* The welding arc creates extreme temperatures and may pose a significant fire and explosion hazard if safe practices are not followed
* Spatter can reach up to 35 feet away from the welding space
* Inspect the work area for any flammable materials and remove them from the area

===== Welding Processes =====
Feel free to watch any or all of these videos before class. These give you a general idea about the welding process being taught. **These in no way substitute attending an orientation class.**

==== Stick Welding / SMAW ====
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP8hh0yQibM|Arc Welding 2 by Steve Bleile (Eric's recommendation)]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MKuUICV6-c|Weld.com's STICK WELDING 101]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fUAHkUfTps|WELDING: THE BEST WAY TO LEARN! (CW:Language)]]

==== MIG Welding / GMAW ====
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlmOb1tIJ4Y|Weld.com's Beginners Guide to MIG Welding]]\\
[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bu_EsAFJUTg|MIG WELDER MISTAKES (CW:Language)]]

3d-printer-orientation

2024-02-25T16:43:53Z

Bereamakers: /* Working with LuBan */

====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (FDM) ======
This page will include video and textual links to supplement our 3D Printing Orientation. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Hardware =====
* (2x) Bambu Lab X1-C (**Requires Basic FDM Orientation**)
** One is equipped with the AMS system for multicolor / multimaterial
** Build Volume: 256mm x 256mm x 256mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG, ABS/ASA, Nylon, TPU, Soluble Support Materials
** Slicer Used: **Bambu Studio**
* Ender 5 Plus (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 350mm x 350mm x 400mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**
* CR-10 Max (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 450mm x 450mm x 450mm
** Nozzle Size: 1.0mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**

===== Bambu Labs Resources =====
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-quick-start Quick Start for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/project-based-workflow The Project Based Workflow for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/multi-color-printing Multicolor Printing]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/high-speed-print-at-quality High Speed Printing at Quality]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-pages-outline A whole lot more stuff to read up on]

===== What do I want you to get out of our basic orientation? =====
* Loading and Unloading filament
**Loading and unloading with the AMS
* Preparing Build Plate
* Navigating the menu
* Operating Bambu Studio
** Connect to Printer
** Choose Plate
** Choose Filament
** Choose Preset
** Altering the Preset
*** Strength Settings
**** Walls, infill
*** Support settings
**** Manual and Automatic Support
*** Other Settings
**** Brim
** Loading Models onto bed
*** Manipulating Models
**** Rotating
**** Scaling
**** Moving
**** Manual Support Painting
**** Laying Flat
**** 3D Text

===== Filament =====
* **Material** - PLA, PLA+, PETG
** Please let us know if you'll be using PETG, or unlisted materials. A cold pull will need to be performed after use
*** A cold pull involves clearing out the hotter melting filament before using a colder melting filament. PLA is the most common used filament at the space, and has the lowest melting temp - any debris left after a PETG or similar print will not melt under PLA hotend temperatures. This generally requires preheating the hotend to the temp of the higher melting point material, passing PLA filament through, cooling the hotend below the PLA melt temp (ideally around 160c) and physically pulling out the filament.
*** This should remove extra filament that was remaining in the hotend before the procedure
*** This may need to be performed multiple times
*** If you are not comfortable doing this, please stick with PLA, or coordinate with Jess or another experienced printer in order to load and unload your filament
**** That said, please get comfortable doing this. I'm happy to help you the first time, or if there is an unexpected clog, but advanced filaments require you to be competent in this level of printer maintenance
*** https://youtu.be/lLM7cWoUuKg
* **Filament Size** - 1.75mm
* **Brand** - //Most// PLA and PETG available these days is of adequate quality. Amazonbasics, SUNLU, Hatchbox, Overture are my most purchased filaments
** [https://llldmax.com/|IIID Max] is a great option if you're buying a lot. Free shipping and the lowest per kg prices right now
** [https://www.pushplastic.com PushPlastic] is my preferred vendor for large rolls. The filament spool holder I have available for the cr-10 max supports their rolls. Be wary, as the hole size for various vendors for 5kg+ spools can vary drastically.

===== Where to Find 3d Models =====
* [https://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]
* [https://www.thangs.com Thangs]
* [https://www.printables.com Printables]
* [https://grabcad.com GrabCAD]
* [https://www.myminifactory.com MyMiniFactory]
* [https://www.tinkercad.com/things TinkerCAD Things]
* [https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov NASA 3D Resources]

===== Recommended 3D Modeling Software =====
* [https://www.tinkercad.com TinkerCAD] - Browser based, cloud based, approachable for makers of all ages
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - Cloud based parametric 3d modeling software. Collaborative, powerful, free license available
* [https://www.luban3d.com LuBan] - Has a number of fun features for scaling models to any size, lithographs, box making, extrusion, etc. We have a license for this software on site, available on the PC located in the 3d Printing Area

==== Working with LuBan ====
* LuBan is generative design software that helps designers and makers in rapid production of their creations
** LuBan automatically generates 3D models in various forms, such as lithophane, stack, hash, plate, relief, module, and wireframe. The generated model can be fabricated by 3D printing, laser cutting, and CNC milling.
* Documentation on using LuBan can be found here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-h-MIDRqy1OOeSdzCys652aa2p5xhq1n/view?usp=sharing
** "Hello LuBan" includes detailed instructions on using the lithopane feature of LuBan, one of the most popular uses of this software currently
{{ :lithopane.png?400 |}}

====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (Resin) ======
===== Hardware =====
* Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
** Build Volume: 129mm(L), 80mm(W), 160mm(H)
** Screen: Monochrome LCD, 2K HD
** Fulament's flexible build plate has been installed (easy removal)
* Elegoo Mercury Wash and Cure station
** Provides both cleaning and curing solutions for post processing of resin prints

===== Materials =====
* UV Curable Resins (405nm)
* Come in "standard", "tough" / ABS-like, flexible, casting, and many other variations
** These affect printing times, post processing, strength, details, and flexibility
* Multiple colors are possible
** Opaqueness affects curing time and print quality
** Grey filaments generally recommended for details and painting
* Mixing and matching is possible
* All resins have an expiration date. Buy less if you don't print much!
* Resins must be stored in a cool, dark location. Please don't leave them at the space
* Resins are affected by temperature - make sure the room it 75 degrees or so before starting a print
* Recommended resins producers:
** [https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/82DE7F76-C451-4191-B7A4-34CC363AD5CB Elegoo]
** Recommended Print Settings here: [[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view ELEGOO Printers Resin Setting Sheet]
** [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SirayaTech/page/4E8D98CC-7AD5-4AEC-9B13-4662843002BF Siraya Tech]
** Recommended Support and Print Settings here: [[https://siraya.tech/pages/support Siraya Tech Support]

===== Other Consumables =====
* Isopropyl Alcohol (90%)
** Required for cleaning prints
** Reusable for several prints
** Some resins are water washable. We don't have a container for water rinsing, but a [https://www.amazon.com/LOCK-HPL933BT-Pickle-Container/dp/B06WD1F7HD Pickle Container with Strainer] is a great way to rinse resin prints before curing.
* [https://www.amazon.com/MedPride-Powder-Free-Nitrile-Gloves-Medium/dp/B00GS8W3T4/ Nitrile Gloves]
** YOU NEED to be using hand protection when handling uncured resin. Prolonged exposure to resins can create a sensitivity
* Resin Vat / FEP Film
** You are responsible for your own Resin Vat. Having personal vats lets you store poured resin for a future print while not inconveniencing others.
** Resin Vats have a layer of FEP film on the bottom to allow light to pass through into the vat for curing. This occasionally wears out. FEP film must then be replaced.
** [https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Metal-Printer-Gloves-Photon/dp/B07WGFF4K4/ Recommended Resin Vat]
** [https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Release-Printer-140200-Thickness/dp/B07Z9C9T42 Recommended FEP film]

3d-printer-orientation

2024-02-25T16:40:28Z

Bereamakers: /* Recommended 3D Modeling Software */

====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (FDM) ======
This page will include video and textual links to supplement our 3D Printing Orientation. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Hardware =====
* (2x) Bambu Lab X1-C (**Requires Basic FDM Orientation**)
** One is equipped with the AMS system for multicolor / multimaterial
** Build Volume: 256mm x 256mm x 256mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG, ABS/ASA, Nylon, TPU, Soluble Support Materials
** Slicer Used: **Bambu Studio**
* Ender 5 Plus (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 350mm x 350mm x 400mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**
* CR-10 Max (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 450mm x 450mm x 450mm
** Nozzle Size: 1.0mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**

===== Bambu Labs Resources =====
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-quick-start Quick Start for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/project-based-workflow The Project Based Workflow for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/multi-color-printing Multicolor Printing]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/high-speed-print-at-quality High Speed Printing at Quality]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-pages-outline A whole lot more stuff to read up on]

===== What do I want you to get out of our basic orientation? =====
* Loading and Unloading filament
**Loading and unloading with the AMS
* Preparing Build Plate
* Navigating the menu
* Operating Bambu Studio
** Connect to Printer
** Choose Plate
** Choose Filament
** Choose Preset
** Altering the Preset
*** Strength Settings
**** Walls, infill
*** Support settings
**** Manual and Automatic Support
*** Other Settings
**** Brim
** Loading Models onto bed
*** Manipulating Models
**** Rotating
**** Scaling
**** Moving
**** Manual Support Painting
**** Laying Flat
**** 3D Text

===== Filament =====
* **Material** - PLA, PLA+, PETG
** Please let us know if you'll be using PETG, or unlisted materials. A cold pull will need to be performed after use
*** A cold pull involves clearing out the hotter melting filament before using a colder melting filament. PLA is the most common used filament at the space, and has the lowest melting temp - any debris left after a PETG or similar print will not melt under PLA hotend temperatures. This generally requires preheating the hotend to the temp of the higher melting point material, passing PLA filament through, cooling the hotend below the PLA melt temp (ideally around 160c) and physically pulling out the filament.
*** This should remove extra filament that was remaining in the hotend before the procedure
*** This may need to be performed multiple times
*** If you are not comfortable doing this, please stick with PLA, or coordinate with Jess or another experienced printer in order to load and unload your filament
**** That said, please get comfortable doing this. I'm happy to help you the first time, or if there is an unexpected clog, but advanced filaments require you to be competent in this level of printer maintenance
*** https://youtu.be/lLM7cWoUuKg
* **Filament Size** - 1.75mm
* **Brand** - //Most// PLA and PETG available these days is of adequate quality. Amazonbasics, SUNLU, Hatchbox, Overture are my most purchased filaments
** [https://llldmax.com/|IIID Max] is a great option if you're buying a lot. Free shipping and the lowest per kg prices right now
** [https://www.pushplastic.com PushPlastic] is my preferred vendor for large rolls. The filament spool holder I have available for the cr-10 max supports their rolls. Be wary, as the hole size for various vendors for 5kg+ spools can vary drastically.

===== Where to Find 3d Models =====
* [https://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]
* [https://www.thangs.com Thangs]
* [https://www.printables.com Printables]
* [https://grabcad.com GrabCAD]
* [https://www.myminifactory.com MyMiniFactory]
* [https://www.tinkercad.com/things TinkerCAD Things]
* [https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov NASA 3D Resources]

===== Recommended 3D Modeling Software =====
* [https://www.tinkercad.com TinkerCAD] - Browser based, cloud based, approachable for makers of all ages
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - Cloud based parametric 3d modeling software. Collaborative, powerful, free license available
* [https://www.luban3d.com LuBan] - Has a number of fun features for scaling models to any size, lithographs, box making, extrusion, etc. We have a license for this software on site, available on the PC located in the 3d Printing Area

==== Working with LuBan ====
* LuBan is generative design software that helps designers and makers in rapid production of their creations
* LuBan automatically generates 3D models in various forms, such as lithophane, stack, hash, plate, relief, module, and wireframe. The generated model can be fabricated by 3D printing, laser cutting, and CNC milling.
* Documentation on using LuBan can be found here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-h-MIDRqy1OOeSdzCys652aa2p5xhq1n/view?usp=sharing
* "Hello LuBan" includes detailed instructions on using the lithopane feature of LuBan, one of the most popular uses of this software currently
{{ :lithopane.png?400 |}}
====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (Resin) ======
===== Hardware =====
* Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
* Build Volume: 129mm(L), 80mm(W), 160mm(H)
* Screen: Monochrome LCD, 2K HD
* Fulament's flexible build plate has been installed (easy removal)
* Elegoo Mercury Wash and Cure station
* Provides both cleaning and curing solutions for post processing of resin prints
===== Materials =====
* UV Curable Resins (405nm)
* Come in "standard", "tough" / ABS-like, flexible, casting, and many other variations
* These affect printing times, post processing, strength, details, and flexibility
* Multiple colors are possible
* Opaqueness affects curing time and print quality
* Grey filaments generally recommended for details and painting
* Mixing and matching is possible
* All resins have an expiration date. Buy less if you don't print much!
* Resins must be stored in a cool, dark location. Please don't leave them at the space
* Resins are affected by temperature - make sure the room it 75 degrees or so before starting a print
* Recommended resins producers:
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/82DE7F76-C451-4191-B7A4-34CC363AD5CB | Elegoo]]
* Recommended Print Settings here: [[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view | ELEGOO Printers Resin Setting Sheet]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/SirayaTech/page/4E8D98CC-7AD5-4AEC-9B13-4662843002BF | Siraya Tech]]
* Recommended Support and Print Settings here: [[https://siraya.tech/pages/support | Siraya Tech Support]]
===== Other Consumables =====
* Isopropyl Alcohol (90%)
* Required for cleaning prints
* Reusable for several prints
* Some resins are water washable. We don't have a container for water rinsing, but a [[https://www.amazon.com/LOCK-HPL933BT-Pickle-Container/dp/B06WD1F7HD|Pickle Container with Strainer]] is a great way to rinse resin prints before curing.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/MedPride-Powder-Free-Nitrile-Gloves-Medium/dp/B00GS8W3T4/ | Nitrile Gloves]]
* YOU NEED to be using hand protection when handling uncured resin. Prolonged exposure to resins can create a sensitivity
* Resin Vat / FEP Film
* You are responsible for your own Resin Vat. Having personal vats lets you store poured resin for a future print while not inconveniencing others.
* Resin Vats have a layer of FEP film on the bottom to allow light to pass through into the vat for curing. This occasionally wears out. FEP film must then be replaced.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Metal-Printer-Gloves-Photon/dp/B07WGFF4K4/|Recommended Resin Vat]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Release-Printer-140200-Thickness/dp/B07Z9C9T42|Recommended FEP film]]

3d-printer-orientation

2024-02-25T16:39:59Z

Bereamakers: /* Where to Find 3d Models */

====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (FDM) ======
This page will include video and textual links to supplement our 3D Printing Orientation. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Hardware =====
* (2x) Bambu Lab X1-C (**Requires Basic FDM Orientation**)
** One is equipped with the AMS system for multicolor / multimaterial
** Build Volume: 256mm x 256mm x 256mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG, ABS/ASA, Nylon, TPU, Soluble Support Materials
** Slicer Used: **Bambu Studio**
* Ender 5 Plus (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 350mm x 350mm x 400mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**
* CR-10 Max (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 450mm x 450mm x 450mm
** Nozzle Size: 1.0mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**

===== Bambu Labs Resources =====
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-quick-start Quick Start for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/project-based-workflow The Project Based Workflow for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/multi-color-printing Multicolor Printing]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/high-speed-print-at-quality High Speed Printing at Quality]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-pages-outline A whole lot more stuff to read up on]

===== What do I want you to get out of our basic orientation? =====
* Loading and Unloading filament
**Loading and unloading with the AMS
* Preparing Build Plate
* Navigating the menu
* Operating Bambu Studio
** Connect to Printer
** Choose Plate
** Choose Filament
** Choose Preset
** Altering the Preset
*** Strength Settings
**** Walls, infill
*** Support settings
**** Manual and Automatic Support
*** Other Settings
**** Brim
** Loading Models onto bed
*** Manipulating Models
**** Rotating
**** Scaling
**** Moving
**** Manual Support Painting
**** Laying Flat
**** 3D Text

===== Filament =====
* **Material** - PLA, PLA+, PETG
** Please let us know if you'll be using PETG, or unlisted materials. A cold pull will need to be performed after use
*** A cold pull involves clearing out the hotter melting filament before using a colder melting filament. PLA is the most common used filament at the space, and has the lowest melting temp - any debris left after a PETG or similar print will not melt under PLA hotend temperatures. This generally requires preheating the hotend to the temp of the higher melting point material, passing PLA filament through, cooling the hotend below the PLA melt temp (ideally around 160c) and physically pulling out the filament.
*** This should remove extra filament that was remaining in the hotend before the procedure
*** This may need to be performed multiple times
*** If you are not comfortable doing this, please stick with PLA, or coordinate with Jess or another experienced printer in order to load and unload your filament
**** That said, please get comfortable doing this. I'm happy to help you the first time, or if there is an unexpected clog, but advanced filaments require you to be competent in this level of printer maintenance
*** https://youtu.be/lLM7cWoUuKg
* **Filament Size** - 1.75mm
* **Brand** - //Most// PLA and PETG available these days is of adequate quality. Amazonbasics, SUNLU, Hatchbox, Overture are my most purchased filaments
** [https://llldmax.com/|IIID Max] is a great option if you're buying a lot. Free shipping and the lowest per kg prices right now
** [https://www.pushplastic.com PushPlastic] is my preferred vendor for large rolls. The filament spool holder I have available for the cr-10 max supports their rolls. Be wary, as the hole size for various vendors for 5kg+ spools can vary drastically.

===== Where to Find 3d Models =====
* [https://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]
* [https://www.thangs.com Thangs]
* [https://www.printables.com Printables]
* [https://grabcad.com GrabCAD]
* [https://www.myminifactory.com MyMiniFactory]
* [https://www.tinkercad.com/things TinkerCAD Things]
* [https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov NASA 3D Resources]

===== Recommended 3D Modeling Software =====
* [[https://www.tinkercad.com|TinkerCAD]] - Browser based, cloud based, approachable for makers of all ages
* [[https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview|Fusion 360]] - Cloud based parametric 3d modeling software. Collaborative, powerful, free license available
* [[https://www.luban3d.com|LuBan]] - Has a number of fun features for scaling models to any size, lithographs, box making, extrusion, etc. We have a license for this software on site, available on the PC located in the 3d Printing Area
==== Working with LuBan ====
* LuBan is generative design software that helps designers and makers in rapid production of their creations
* LuBan automatically generates 3D models in various forms, such as lithophane, stack, hash, plate, relief, module, and wireframe. The generated model can be fabricated by 3D printing, laser cutting, and CNC milling.
* Documentation on using LuBan can be found here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-h-MIDRqy1OOeSdzCys652aa2p5xhq1n/view?usp=sharing
* "Hello LuBan" includes detailed instructions on using the lithopane feature of LuBan, one of the most popular uses of this software currently
{{ :lithopane.png?400 |}}
====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (Resin) ======
===== Hardware =====
* Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
* Build Volume: 129mm(L), 80mm(W), 160mm(H)
* Screen: Monochrome LCD, 2K HD
* Fulament's flexible build plate has been installed (easy removal)
* Elegoo Mercury Wash and Cure station
* Provides both cleaning and curing solutions for post processing of resin prints
===== Materials =====
* UV Curable Resins (405nm)
* Come in "standard", "tough" / ABS-like, flexible, casting, and many other variations
* These affect printing times, post processing, strength, details, and flexibility
* Multiple colors are possible
* Opaqueness affects curing time and print quality
* Grey filaments generally recommended for details and painting
* Mixing and matching is possible
* All resins have an expiration date. Buy less if you don't print much!
* Resins must be stored in a cool, dark location. Please don't leave them at the space
* Resins are affected by temperature - make sure the room it 75 degrees or so before starting a print
* Recommended resins producers:
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/82DE7F76-C451-4191-B7A4-34CC363AD5CB | Elegoo]]
* Recommended Print Settings here: [[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view | ELEGOO Printers Resin Setting Sheet]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/SirayaTech/page/4E8D98CC-7AD5-4AEC-9B13-4662843002BF | Siraya Tech]]
* Recommended Support and Print Settings here: [[https://siraya.tech/pages/support | Siraya Tech Support]]
===== Other Consumables =====
* Isopropyl Alcohol (90%)
* Required for cleaning prints
* Reusable for several prints
* Some resins are water washable. We don't have a container for water rinsing, but a [[https://www.amazon.com/LOCK-HPL933BT-Pickle-Container/dp/B06WD1F7HD|Pickle Container with Strainer]] is a great way to rinse resin prints before curing.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/MedPride-Powder-Free-Nitrile-Gloves-Medium/dp/B00GS8W3T4/ | Nitrile Gloves]]
* YOU NEED to be using hand protection when handling uncured resin. Prolonged exposure to resins can create a sensitivity
* Resin Vat / FEP Film
* You are responsible for your own Resin Vat. Having personal vats lets you store poured resin for a future print while not inconveniencing others.
* Resin Vats have a layer of FEP film on the bottom to allow light to pass through into the vat for curing. This occasionally wears out. FEP film must then be replaced.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Metal-Printer-Gloves-Photon/dp/B07WGFF4K4/|Recommended Resin Vat]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Release-Printer-140200-Thickness/dp/B07Z9C9T42|Recommended FEP film]]

3d-printer-orientation

2024-02-25T16:39:14Z

Bereamakers: /* Filament */

====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (FDM) ======
This page will include video and textual links to supplement our 3D Printing Orientation. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Hardware =====
* (2x) Bambu Lab X1-C (**Requires Basic FDM Orientation**)
** One is equipped with the AMS system for multicolor / multimaterial
** Build Volume: 256mm x 256mm x 256mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG, ABS/ASA, Nylon, TPU, Soluble Support Materials
** Slicer Used: **Bambu Studio**
* Ender 5 Plus (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 350mm x 350mm x 400mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**
* CR-10 Max (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 450mm x 450mm x 450mm
** Nozzle Size: 1.0mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**

===== Bambu Labs Resources =====
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-quick-start Quick Start for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/project-based-workflow The Project Based Workflow for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/multi-color-printing Multicolor Printing]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/high-speed-print-at-quality High Speed Printing at Quality]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-pages-outline A whole lot more stuff to read up on]

===== What do I want you to get out of our basic orientation? =====
* Loading and Unloading filament
**Loading and unloading with the AMS
* Preparing Build Plate
* Navigating the menu
* Operating Bambu Studio
** Connect to Printer
** Choose Plate
** Choose Filament
** Choose Preset
** Altering the Preset
*** Strength Settings
**** Walls, infill
*** Support settings
**** Manual and Automatic Support
*** Other Settings
**** Brim
** Loading Models onto bed
*** Manipulating Models
**** Rotating
**** Scaling
**** Moving
**** Manual Support Painting
**** Laying Flat
**** 3D Text

===== Filament =====
* **Material** - PLA, PLA+, PETG
** Please let us know if you'll be using PETG, or unlisted materials. A cold pull will need to be performed after use
*** A cold pull involves clearing out the hotter melting filament before using a colder melting filament. PLA is the most common used filament at the space, and has the lowest melting temp - any debris left after a PETG or similar print will not melt under PLA hotend temperatures. This generally requires preheating the hotend to the temp of the higher melting point material, passing PLA filament through, cooling the hotend below the PLA melt temp (ideally around 160c) and physically pulling out the filament.
*** This should remove extra filament that was remaining in the hotend before the procedure
*** This may need to be performed multiple times
*** If you are not comfortable doing this, please stick with PLA, or coordinate with Jess or another experienced printer in order to load and unload your filament
**** That said, please get comfortable doing this. I'm happy to help you the first time, or if there is an unexpected clog, but advanced filaments require you to be competent in this level of printer maintenance
*** https://youtu.be/lLM7cWoUuKg
* **Filament Size** - 1.75mm
* **Brand** - //Most// PLA and PETG available these days is of adequate quality. Amazonbasics, SUNLU, Hatchbox, Overture are my most purchased filaments
** [https://llldmax.com/|IIID Max] is a great option if you're buying a lot. Free shipping and the lowest per kg prices right now
** [https://www.pushplastic.com PushPlastic] is my preferred vendor for large rolls. The filament spool holder I have available for the cr-10 max supports their rolls. Be wary, as the hole size for various vendors for 5kg+ spools can vary drastically.

===== Where to Find 3d Models =====
* [[https://www.thingiverse.com|Thingiverse]]
* [[https://www.thangs.com|Thangs]]
* [[https://www.printables.com|Printables]]
* [[https://grabcad.com|GrabCAD]]
* [[https://www.myminifactory.com|MyMiniFactory]]
* [[https://www.tinkercad.com/things|TinkerCAD Things]]
* [[https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov|NASA 3D Resources]]
===== Recommended 3D Modeling Software =====
* [[https://www.tinkercad.com|TinkerCAD]] - Browser based, cloud based, approachable for makers of all ages
* [[https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview|Fusion 360]] - Cloud based parametric 3d modeling software. Collaborative, powerful, free license available
* [[https://www.luban3d.com|LuBan]] - Has a number of fun features for scaling models to any size, lithographs, box making, extrusion, etc. We have a license for this software on site, available on the PC located in the 3d Printing Area
==== Working with LuBan ====
* LuBan is generative design software that helps designers and makers in rapid production of their creations
* LuBan automatically generates 3D models in various forms, such as lithophane, stack, hash, plate, relief, module, and wireframe. The generated model can be fabricated by 3D printing, laser cutting, and CNC milling.
* Documentation on using LuBan can be found here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-h-MIDRqy1OOeSdzCys652aa2p5xhq1n/view?usp=sharing
* "Hello LuBan" includes detailed instructions on using the lithopane feature of LuBan, one of the most popular uses of this software currently
{{ :lithopane.png?400 |}}
====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (Resin) ======
===== Hardware =====
* Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
* Build Volume: 129mm(L), 80mm(W), 160mm(H)
* Screen: Monochrome LCD, 2K HD
* Fulament's flexible build plate has been installed (easy removal)
* Elegoo Mercury Wash and Cure station
* Provides both cleaning and curing solutions for post processing of resin prints
===== Materials =====
* UV Curable Resins (405nm)
* Come in "standard", "tough" / ABS-like, flexible, casting, and many other variations
* These affect printing times, post processing, strength, details, and flexibility
* Multiple colors are possible
* Opaqueness affects curing time and print quality
* Grey filaments generally recommended for details and painting
* Mixing and matching is possible
* All resins have an expiration date. Buy less if you don't print much!
* Resins must be stored in a cool, dark location. Please don't leave them at the space
* Resins are affected by temperature - make sure the room it 75 degrees or so before starting a print
* Recommended resins producers:
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/82DE7F76-C451-4191-B7A4-34CC363AD5CB | Elegoo]]
* Recommended Print Settings here: [[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view | ELEGOO Printers Resin Setting Sheet]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/SirayaTech/page/4E8D98CC-7AD5-4AEC-9B13-4662843002BF | Siraya Tech]]
* Recommended Support and Print Settings here: [[https://siraya.tech/pages/support | Siraya Tech Support]]
===== Other Consumables =====
* Isopropyl Alcohol (90%)
* Required for cleaning prints
* Reusable for several prints
* Some resins are water washable. We don't have a container for water rinsing, but a [[https://www.amazon.com/LOCK-HPL933BT-Pickle-Container/dp/B06WD1F7HD|Pickle Container with Strainer]] is a great way to rinse resin prints before curing.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/MedPride-Powder-Free-Nitrile-Gloves-Medium/dp/B00GS8W3T4/ | Nitrile Gloves]]
* YOU NEED to be using hand protection when handling uncured resin. Prolonged exposure to resins can create a sensitivity
* Resin Vat / FEP Film
* You are responsible for your own Resin Vat. Having personal vats lets you store poured resin for a future print while not inconveniencing others.
* Resin Vats have a layer of FEP film on the bottom to allow light to pass through into the vat for curing. This occasionally wears out. FEP film must then be replaced.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Metal-Printer-Gloves-Photon/dp/B07WGFF4K4/|Recommended Resin Vat]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Release-Printer-140200-Thickness/dp/B07Z9C9T42|Recommended FEP film]]

3d-printer-orientation

2024-02-25T16:37:22Z

Bereamakers: /* What do I want you to get out of our basic orientation? */

====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (FDM) ======
This page will include video and textual links to supplement our 3D Printing Orientation. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Hardware =====
* (2x) Bambu Lab X1-C (**Requires Basic FDM Orientation**)
** One is equipped with the AMS system for multicolor / multimaterial
** Build Volume: 256mm x 256mm x 256mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG, ABS/ASA, Nylon, TPU, Soluble Support Materials
** Slicer Used: **Bambu Studio**
* Ender 5 Plus (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 350mm x 350mm x 400mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**
* CR-10 Max (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 450mm x 450mm x 450mm
** Nozzle Size: 1.0mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**

===== Bambu Labs Resources =====
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-quick-start Quick Start for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/project-based-workflow The Project Based Workflow for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/multi-color-printing Multicolor Printing]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/high-speed-print-at-quality High Speed Printing at Quality]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-pages-outline A whole lot more stuff to read up on]

===== What do I want you to get out of our basic orientation? =====
* Loading and Unloading filament
**Loading and unloading with the AMS
* Preparing Build Plate
* Navigating the menu
* Operating Bambu Studio
** Connect to Printer
** Choose Plate
** Choose Filament
** Choose Preset
** Altering the Preset
*** Strength Settings
**** Walls, infill
*** Support settings
**** Manual and Automatic Support
*** Other Settings
**** Brim
** Loading Models onto bed
*** Manipulating Models
**** Rotating
**** Scaling
**** Moving
**** Manual Support Painting
**** Laying Flat
**** 3D Text

===== Filament =====
* **Material** - PLA, PLA+, PETG
* Please let us know if you'll be using PETG, or unlisted materials. A cold pull will need to be performed after use
* A cold pull involves clearing out the hotter melting filament before using a colder melting filament. PLA is the most common used filament at the space, and has the lowest melting temp - any debris left after a PETG or similar print will not melt under PLA hotend temperatures. This generally requires preheating the hotend to the temp of the higher melting point material, passing PLA filament through, cooling the hotend below the PLA melt temp (ideally around 160c) and physically pulling out the filament.
* This should remove extra filament that was remaining in the hotend before the procedure
* This may need to be performed multiple times
* If you are not comfortable doing this, please stick with PLA, or coordinate with Jess or another experienced printer in order to load and unload your filament
* That said, please get comfortable doing this. I'm happy to help you the first time, or if there is an unexpected clog, but advanced filaments require you to be competent in this level of printer maintenance
* {{youtube>lLM7cWoUuKg?medium}}
* **Filament Size** - 1.75mm
* **Brand** - //Most// PLA and PETG available these days is of adequate quality. Amazonbasics, SUNLU, Hatchbox, Overture are my most purchased filaments
* [[https://llldmax.com/|IIID Max]] is a great option if you're buying a lot. Free shipping and the lowest per kg prices right now
* [[https://www.pushplastic.com|PushPlastic]] is my preferred vendor for large rolls. The filament spool holder I have available for the cr-10 max supports their rolls. Be wary, as the hole size for various vendors for 5kg+ spools can vary drastically.
===== Where to Find 3d Models =====
* [[https://www.thingiverse.com|Thingiverse]]
* [[https://www.thangs.com|Thangs]]
* [[https://www.printables.com|Printables]]
* [[https://grabcad.com|GrabCAD]]
* [[https://www.myminifactory.com|MyMiniFactory]]
* [[https://www.tinkercad.com/things|TinkerCAD Things]]
* [[https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov|NASA 3D Resources]]
===== Recommended 3D Modeling Software =====
* [[https://www.tinkercad.com|TinkerCAD]] - Browser based, cloud based, approachable for makers of all ages
* [[https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview|Fusion 360]] - Cloud based parametric 3d modeling software. Collaborative, powerful, free license available
* [[https://www.luban3d.com|LuBan]] - Has a number of fun features for scaling models to any size, lithographs, box making, extrusion, etc. We have a license for this software on site, available on the PC located in the 3d Printing Area
==== Working with LuBan ====
* LuBan is generative design software that helps designers and makers in rapid production of their creations
* LuBan automatically generates 3D models in various forms, such as lithophane, stack, hash, plate, relief, module, and wireframe. The generated model can be fabricated by 3D printing, laser cutting, and CNC milling.
* Documentation on using LuBan can be found here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-h-MIDRqy1OOeSdzCys652aa2p5xhq1n/view?usp=sharing
* "Hello LuBan" includes detailed instructions on using the lithopane feature of LuBan, one of the most popular uses of this software currently
{{ :lithopane.png?400 |}}
====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (Resin) ======
===== Hardware =====
* Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
* Build Volume: 129mm(L), 80mm(W), 160mm(H)
* Screen: Monochrome LCD, 2K HD
* Fulament's flexible build plate has been installed (easy removal)
* Elegoo Mercury Wash and Cure station
* Provides both cleaning and curing solutions for post processing of resin prints
===== Materials =====
* UV Curable Resins (405nm)
* Come in "standard", "tough" / ABS-like, flexible, casting, and many other variations
* These affect printing times, post processing, strength, details, and flexibility
* Multiple colors are possible
* Opaqueness affects curing time and print quality
* Grey filaments generally recommended for details and painting
* Mixing and matching is possible
* All resins have an expiration date. Buy less if you don't print much!
* Resins must be stored in a cool, dark location. Please don't leave them at the space
* Resins are affected by temperature - make sure the room it 75 degrees or so before starting a print
* Recommended resins producers:
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/82DE7F76-C451-4191-B7A4-34CC363AD5CB | Elegoo]]
* Recommended Print Settings here: [[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view | ELEGOO Printers Resin Setting Sheet]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/SirayaTech/page/4E8D98CC-7AD5-4AEC-9B13-4662843002BF | Siraya Tech]]
* Recommended Support and Print Settings here: [[https://siraya.tech/pages/support | Siraya Tech Support]]
===== Other Consumables =====
* Isopropyl Alcohol (90%)
* Required for cleaning prints
* Reusable for several prints
* Some resins are water washable. We don't have a container for water rinsing, but a [[https://www.amazon.com/LOCK-HPL933BT-Pickle-Container/dp/B06WD1F7HD|Pickle Container with Strainer]] is a great way to rinse resin prints before curing.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/MedPride-Powder-Free-Nitrile-Gloves-Medium/dp/B00GS8W3T4/ | Nitrile Gloves]]
* YOU NEED to be using hand protection when handling uncured resin. Prolonged exposure to resins can create a sensitivity
* Resin Vat / FEP Film
* You are responsible for your own Resin Vat. Having personal vats lets you store poured resin for a future print while not inconveniencing others.
* Resin Vats have a layer of FEP film on the bottom to allow light to pass through into the vat for curing. This occasionally wears out. FEP film must then be replaced.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Metal-Printer-Gloves-Photon/dp/B07WGFF4K4/|Recommended Resin Vat]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Release-Printer-140200-Thickness/dp/B07Z9C9T42|Recommended FEP film]]

3d-printer-orientation

2024-02-25T16:36:52Z

Bereamakers: /* What do I want you to get out of our basic orientation? */

====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (FDM) ======
This page will include video and textual links to supplement our 3D Printing Orientation. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Hardware =====
* (2x) Bambu Lab X1-C (**Requires Basic FDM Orientation**)
** One is equipped with the AMS system for multicolor / multimaterial
** Build Volume: 256mm x 256mm x 256mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG, ABS/ASA, Nylon, TPU, Soluble Support Materials
** Slicer Used: **Bambu Studio**
* Ender 5 Plus (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 350mm x 350mm x 400mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**
* CR-10 Max (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 450mm x 450mm x 450mm
** Nozzle Size: 1.0mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**

===== Bambu Labs Resources =====
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-quick-start Quick Start for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/project-based-workflow The Project Based Workflow for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/multi-color-printing Multicolor Printing]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/high-speed-print-at-quality High Speed Printing at Quality]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-pages-outline A whole lot more stuff to read up on]

===== What do I want you to get out of our basic orientation? =====
* Loading and Unloading filament
*** Loading and unloading with the AMS
* Preparing Build Plate
* Navigating the menu
* Operating Bambu Studio
** Connect to Printer
** Choose Plate
** Choose Filament
** Choose Preset
** Altering the Preset
*** Strength Settings
**** Walls, infill
*** Support settings
**** Manual and Automatic Support
*** Other Settings
**** Brim
** Loading Models onto bed
*** Manipulating Models
**** Rotating
**** Scaling
**** Moving
**** Manual Support Painting
**** Laying Flat
**** 3D Text

===== Filament =====
* **Material** - PLA, PLA+, PETG
* Please let us know if you'll be using PETG, or unlisted materials. A cold pull will need to be performed after use
* A cold pull involves clearing out the hotter melting filament before using a colder melting filament. PLA is the most common used filament at the space, and has the lowest melting temp - any debris left after a PETG or similar print will not melt under PLA hotend temperatures. This generally requires preheating the hotend to the temp of the higher melting point material, passing PLA filament through, cooling the hotend below the PLA melt temp (ideally around 160c) and physically pulling out the filament.
* This should remove extra filament that was remaining in the hotend before the procedure
* This may need to be performed multiple times
* If you are not comfortable doing this, please stick with PLA, or coordinate with Jess or another experienced printer in order to load and unload your filament
* That said, please get comfortable doing this. I'm happy to help you the first time, or if there is an unexpected clog, but advanced filaments require you to be competent in this level of printer maintenance
* {{youtube>lLM7cWoUuKg?medium}}
* **Filament Size** - 1.75mm
* **Brand** - //Most// PLA and PETG available these days is of adequate quality. Amazonbasics, SUNLU, Hatchbox, Overture are my most purchased filaments
* [[https://llldmax.com/|IIID Max]] is a great option if you're buying a lot. Free shipping and the lowest per kg prices right now
* [[https://www.pushplastic.com|PushPlastic]] is my preferred vendor for large rolls. The filament spool holder I have available for the cr-10 max supports their rolls. Be wary, as the hole size for various vendors for 5kg+ spools can vary drastically.
===== Where to Find 3d Models =====
* [[https://www.thingiverse.com|Thingiverse]]
* [[https://www.thangs.com|Thangs]]
* [[https://www.printables.com|Printables]]
* [[https://grabcad.com|GrabCAD]]
* [[https://www.myminifactory.com|MyMiniFactory]]
* [[https://www.tinkercad.com/things|TinkerCAD Things]]
* [[https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov|NASA 3D Resources]]
===== Recommended 3D Modeling Software =====
* [[https://www.tinkercad.com|TinkerCAD]] - Browser based, cloud based, approachable for makers of all ages
* [[https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview|Fusion 360]] - Cloud based parametric 3d modeling software. Collaborative, powerful, free license available
* [[https://www.luban3d.com|LuBan]] - Has a number of fun features for scaling models to any size, lithographs, box making, extrusion, etc. We have a license for this software on site, available on the PC located in the 3d Printing Area
==== Working with LuBan ====
* LuBan is generative design software that helps designers and makers in rapid production of their creations
* LuBan automatically generates 3D models in various forms, such as lithophane, stack, hash, plate, relief, module, and wireframe. The generated model can be fabricated by 3D printing, laser cutting, and CNC milling.
* Documentation on using LuBan can be found here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-h-MIDRqy1OOeSdzCys652aa2p5xhq1n/view?usp=sharing
* "Hello LuBan" includes detailed instructions on using the lithopane feature of LuBan, one of the most popular uses of this software currently
{{ :lithopane.png?400 |}}
====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (Resin) ======
===== Hardware =====
* Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
* Build Volume: 129mm(L), 80mm(W), 160mm(H)
* Screen: Monochrome LCD, 2K HD
* Fulament's flexible build plate has been installed (easy removal)
* Elegoo Mercury Wash and Cure station
* Provides both cleaning and curing solutions for post processing of resin prints
===== Materials =====
* UV Curable Resins (405nm)
* Come in "standard", "tough" / ABS-like, flexible, casting, and many other variations
* These affect printing times, post processing, strength, details, and flexibility
* Multiple colors are possible
* Opaqueness affects curing time and print quality
* Grey filaments generally recommended for details and painting
* Mixing and matching is possible
* All resins have an expiration date. Buy less if you don't print much!
* Resins must be stored in a cool, dark location. Please don't leave them at the space
* Resins are affected by temperature - make sure the room it 75 degrees or so before starting a print
* Recommended resins producers:
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/82DE7F76-C451-4191-B7A4-34CC363AD5CB | Elegoo]]
* Recommended Print Settings here: [[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view | ELEGOO Printers Resin Setting Sheet]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/SirayaTech/page/4E8D98CC-7AD5-4AEC-9B13-4662843002BF | Siraya Tech]]
* Recommended Support and Print Settings here: [[https://siraya.tech/pages/support | Siraya Tech Support]]
===== Other Consumables =====
* Isopropyl Alcohol (90%)
* Required for cleaning prints
* Reusable for several prints
* Some resins are water washable. We don't have a container for water rinsing, but a [[https://www.amazon.com/LOCK-HPL933BT-Pickle-Container/dp/B06WD1F7HD|Pickle Container with Strainer]] is a great way to rinse resin prints before curing.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/MedPride-Powder-Free-Nitrile-Gloves-Medium/dp/B00GS8W3T4/ | Nitrile Gloves]]
* YOU NEED to be using hand protection when handling uncured resin. Prolonged exposure to resins can create a sensitivity
* Resin Vat / FEP Film
* You are responsible for your own Resin Vat. Having personal vats lets you store poured resin for a future print while not inconveniencing others.
* Resin Vats have a layer of FEP film on the bottom to allow light to pass through into the vat for curing. This occasionally wears out. FEP film must then be replaced.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Metal-Printer-Gloves-Photon/dp/B07WGFF4K4/|Recommended Resin Vat]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Release-Printer-140200-Thickness/dp/B07Z9C9T42|Recommended FEP film]]

3d-printer-orientation

2024-02-25T16:36:35Z

Bereamakers: Created page with "====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (FDM) ====== This page will include video and textual links to supplement our 3D Printing Orientation. This is not a replacement to our orientation. ===== Hardware ===== * (2x) Bambu Lab X1-C (**Requires Basic FDM Orientation**) ** One is equipped with the AMS system for multicolor / multimaterial ** Build Volume: 256mm x 256mm x 256mm ** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm ** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG, ABS/ASA, Nylon, TPU, Solub..."

====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (FDM) ======
This page will include video and textual links to supplement our 3D Printing Orientation. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Hardware =====
* (2x) Bambu Lab X1-C (**Requires Basic FDM Orientation**)
** One is equipped with the AMS system for multicolor / multimaterial
** Build Volume: 256mm x 256mm x 256mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG, ABS/ASA, Nylon, TPU, Soluble Support Materials
** Slicer Used: **Bambu Studio**
* Ender 5 Plus (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 350mm x 350mm x 400mm
** Nozzle Size: 0.4mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**
* CR-10 Max (**Requires Large Format 3D Printing Orientation**)
** Build Volume: 450mm x 450mm x 450mm
** Nozzle Size: 1.0mm
** Materials Supported: PLA, PETG
** Slicer Used: **Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer**

===== Bambu Labs Resources =====
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-quick-start Quick Start for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/project-based-workflow The Project Based Workflow for Bambu Studio]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/multi-color-printing Multicolor Printing]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/high-speed-print-at-quality High Speed Printing at Quality]
* [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-pages-outline A whole lot more stuff to read up on]

===== What do I want you to get out of our basic orientation? =====
* Loading and Unloading filament
* Loading and unloading with the AMS
* Preparing Build Plate
* Navigating the menu
* Operating Bambu Studio
** Connect to Printer
** Choose Plate
** Choose Filament
** Choose Preset
** Altering the Preset
*** Strength Settings
**** Walls, infill
*** Support settings
**** Manual and Automatic Support
*** Other Settings
**** Brim
** Loading Models onto bed
*** Manipulating Models
**** Rotating
**** Scaling
**** Moving
**** Manual Support Painting
**** Laying Flat
**** 3D Text

===== Filament =====
* **Material** - PLA, PLA+, PETG
* Please let us know if you'll be using PETG, or unlisted materials. A cold pull will need to be performed after use
* A cold pull involves clearing out the hotter melting filament before using a colder melting filament. PLA is the most common used filament at the space, and has the lowest melting temp - any debris left after a PETG or similar print will not melt under PLA hotend temperatures. This generally requires preheating the hotend to the temp of the higher melting point material, passing PLA filament through, cooling the hotend below the PLA melt temp (ideally around 160c) and physically pulling out the filament.
* This should remove extra filament that was remaining in the hotend before the procedure
* This may need to be performed multiple times
* If you are not comfortable doing this, please stick with PLA, or coordinate with Jess or another experienced printer in order to load and unload your filament
* That said, please get comfortable doing this. I'm happy to help you the first time, or if there is an unexpected clog, but advanced filaments require you to be competent in this level of printer maintenance
* {{youtube>lLM7cWoUuKg?medium}}
* **Filament Size** - 1.75mm
* **Brand** - //Most// PLA and PETG available these days is of adequate quality. Amazonbasics, SUNLU, Hatchbox, Overture are my most purchased filaments
* [[https://llldmax.com/|IIID Max]] is a great option if you're buying a lot. Free shipping and the lowest per kg prices right now
* [[https://www.pushplastic.com|PushPlastic]] is my preferred vendor for large rolls. The filament spool holder I have available for the cr-10 max supports their rolls. Be wary, as the hole size for various vendors for 5kg+ spools can vary drastically.
===== Where to Find 3d Models =====
* [[https://www.thingiverse.com|Thingiverse]]
* [[https://www.thangs.com|Thangs]]
* [[https://www.printables.com|Printables]]
* [[https://grabcad.com|GrabCAD]]
* [[https://www.myminifactory.com|MyMiniFactory]]
* [[https://www.tinkercad.com/things|TinkerCAD Things]]
* [[https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov|NASA 3D Resources]]
===== Recommended 3D Modeling Software =====
* [[https://www.tinkercad.com|TinkerCAD]] - Browser based, cloud based, approachable for makers of all ages
* [[https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview|Fusion 360]] - Cloud based parametric 3d modeling software. Collaborative, powerful, free license available
* [[https://www.luban3d.com|LuBan]] - Has a number of fun features for scaling models to any size, lithographs, box making, extrusion, etc. We have a license for this software on site, available on the PC located in the 3d Printing Area
==== Working with LuBan ====
* LuBan is generative design software that helps designers and makers in rapid production of their creations
* LuBan automatically generates 3D models in various forms, such as lithophane, stack, hash, plate, relief, module, and wireframe. The generated model can be fabricated by 3D printing, laser cutting, and CNC milling.
* Documentation on using LuBan can be found here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-h-MIDRqy1OOeSdzCys652aa2p5xhq1n/view?usp=sharing
* "Hello LuBan" includes detailed instructions on using the lithopane feature of LuBan, one of the most popular uses of this software currently
{{ :lithopane.png?400 |}}
====== Supplemental Info for 3D Printing Orientation (Resin) ======
===== Hardware =====
* Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
* Build Volume: 129mm(L), 80mm(W), 160mm(H)
* Screen: Monochrome LCD, 2K HD
* Fulament's flexible build plate has been installed (easy removal)
* Elegoo Mercury Wash and Cure station
* Provides both cleaning and curing solutions for post processing of resin prints
===== Materials =====
* UV Curable Resins (405nm)
* Come in "standard", "tough" / ABS-like, flexible, casting, and many other variations
* These affect printing times, post processing, strength, details, and flexibility
* Multiple colors are possible
* Opaqueness affects curing time and print quality
* Grey filaments generally recommended for details and painting
* Mixing and matching is possible
* All resins have an expiration date. Buy less if you don't print much!
* Resins must be stored in a cool, dark location. Please don't leave them at the space
* Resins are affected by temperature - make sure the room it 75 degrees or so before starting a print
* Recommended resins producers:
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/82DE7F76-C451-4191-B7A4-34CC363AD5CB | Elegoo]]
* Recommended Print Settings here: [[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_jnyMfNkm4sPJhKyN46ey5CO-ks4MRyR/view | ELEGOO Printers Resin Setting Sheet]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/stores/SirayaTech/page/4E8D98CC-7AD5-4AEC-9B13-4662843002BF | Siraya Tech]]
* Recommended Support and Print Settings here: [[https://siraya.tech/pages/support | Siraya Tech Support]]
===== Other Consumables =====
* Isopropyl Alcohol (90%)
* Required for cleaning prints
* Reusable for several prints
* Some resins are water washable. We don't have a container for water rinsing, but a [[https://www.amazon.com/LOCK-HPL933BT-Pickle-Container/dp/B06WD1F7HD|Pickle Container with Strainer]] is a great way to rinse resin prints before curing.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/MedPride-Powder-Free-Nitrile-Gloves-Medium/dp/B00GS8W3T4/ | Nitrile Gloves]]
* YOU NEED to be using hand protection when handling uncured resin. Prolonged exposure to resins can create a sensitivity
* Resin Vat / FEP Film
* You are responsible for your own Resin Vat. Having personal vats lets you store poured resin for a future print while not inconveniencing others.
* Resin Vats have a layer of FEP film on the bottom to allow light to pass through into the vat for curing. This occasionally wears out. FEP film must then be replaced.
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Metal-Printer-Gloves-Photon/dp/B07WGFF4K4/|Recommended Resin Vat]]
* [[https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Release-Printer-140200-Thickness/dp/B07Z9C9T42|Recommended FEP film]]

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:32:18Z

Bereamakers: /* Getting cleared to use the CNC Router */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
* Attend scheduled CNC orientation
** Successfully complete checkoff project
*** "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
*** This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
**** 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
**** Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
***** Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
***** Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
***** Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
***** Output in inches, not mm / cm
**** We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
https://www.youtube.com/embed/wdQ-_hllmKY

==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
** **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
** Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate

==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
** Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
** Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
** Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
** Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
** I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine

==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
** **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:31:30Z

Bereamakers: /* Getting cleared to use the CNC Router */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
-- Successfully complete checkoff project
--- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
--- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
---- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
---- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
----- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
----- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
----- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
----- Output in inches, not mm / cm
---- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
https://www.youtube.com/embed/wdQ-_hllmKY

==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
** **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
** Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate

==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
** Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
** Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
** Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
** Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
** I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine

==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
** **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:30:09Z

Bereamakers: /* Can be bought locally */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
- Successfully complete checkoff project
- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
- Output in inches, not mm / cm
- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
https://www.youtube.com/embed/wdQ-_hllmKY

==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
** **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
** Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate

==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
** Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
** Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
** Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
** Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
** I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine

==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
** **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:30:01Z

Bereamakers: /* Size */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
- Successfully complete checkoff project
- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
- Output in inches, not mm / cm
- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
https://www.youtube.com/embed/wdQ-_hllmKY

==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
** **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
** Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate

==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
** Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
** Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
** Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
** Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
** I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine

==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
* **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:29:43Z

Bereamakers: /* Can be bought locally */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
- Successfully complete checkoff project
- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
- Output in inches, not mm / cm
- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
https://www.youtube.com/embed/wdQ-_hllmKY

==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
* **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
* Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate

==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
** Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
** Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
** Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
** Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
** I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine

==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
* **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:29:34Z

Bereamakers: /* Can be bought locally */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
- Successfully complete checkoff project
- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
- Output in inches, not mm / cm
- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
https://www.youtube.com/embed/wdQ-_hllmKY

==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
* **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
* Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate

==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
** Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
** Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
** Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
** Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
** I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine

==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
* **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:29:20Z

Bereamakers: /* Feeds and Speeds */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
- Successfully complete checkoff project
- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
- Output in inches, not mm / cm
- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
https://www.youtube.com/embed/wdQ-_hllmKY

==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
* **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
* Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate

==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
** Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
** Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
** Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
** Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
** I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine

==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
* **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:28:52Z

Bereamakers: /* Size */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
- Successfully complete checkoff project
- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
- Output in inches, not mm / cm
- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
https://www.youtube.com/embed/wdQ-_hllmKY

==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
* **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
* Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate

==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
* Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
* Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
* Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
* Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
* I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine
==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
* **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:28:38Z

Bereamakers: /* Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM) */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
- Successfully complete checkoff project
- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
- Output in inches, not mm / cm
- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
https://www.youtube.com/embed/wdQ-_hllmKY

==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
* **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
* Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate
==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
* Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
* Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
* Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
* Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
* I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine
==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
* **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:27:53Z

Bereamakers: /* End Mills */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
- Successfully complete checkoff project
- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
- Output in inches, not mm / cm
- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
https://www.youtube.com/embed/wdQ-_hllmKY

==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
* **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
* Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate
==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
* Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
* Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
* Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
* Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
* I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine
==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
* **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:27:40Z

Bereamakers: /* End Mills */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
- Successfully complete checkoff project
- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
- Output in inches, not mm / cm
- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
<iframe width="425" height="239" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wdQ-_hllmKY" title="CNC Router Bits - Everything You Need To Know Tutorial and Review" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
* **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
* Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate
==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
* Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
* Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
* Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
* Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
* I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine
==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
* **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:27:11Z

Bereamakers: /* Getting cleared to use the CNC Router */

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
- Successfully complete checkoff project
- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
- Output in inches, not mm / cm
- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project https://youtu.be/TqTHGEK6T6M

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
{{youtube>wdQ-_hllmKY?}}
==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
* **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
* Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate
==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
* Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
* Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
* Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
* Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
* I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine
==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
* **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Cnc-orientation

2024-02-25T16:26:02Z

Bereamakers: Created page with "====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ====== This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation. ===== Our CNC Router ===== AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System * Work Area: ** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm) ** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm) ** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness * Footprint:..."

====== Supplemental Info for CNC Routing Orientation ======

This page will include video and textual links to supplement our CNC orientation, as well as the CAD / CAM instructionals we occasionally host. This is not a replacement to our orientation.

===== Our CNC Router =====

AvidCNC Pro60120 platform, with 3 HP Plug and Play Spindle / VFD System

* Work Area:
** X: 61-3/8" (1559 mm)
** Y: 124-1/4" (3156 mm)
** Z: 8" (203 mm) - minus spoil board thickness
* Footprint:
** Width: 78-3/4" (2000 mm)
** Length: 141" (3582 mm)
** Height: 77-1/2" (1970 mm)
** Weight: 708 lbs (321 kg)
* Cutting Speed:
** 500 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Rapid Speed:
** 1000 IPM (NEMA 34 version)
* Drive System:
** X/Y: PRO Rack and Pinion
** Z: Precision Ballscrew
* Resolution:
** X/Y: 0.0005” (0.0127 mm)
** Z: 0.0002” (0.005 mm)
* Repeatability: +/- 0.002” (0.05 mm)
* Accuracy: +/- 0.005” (0.127 mm) or better

===== Getting cleared to use the CNC Router =====
- Attend scheduled CNC orientation
- Successfully complete checkoff project
- "Check off" involves getting your name on the CNC Operator Board, located above the CNC tool cabinet
- This involves designing and machining a personalized nameplate that can be installed on said operator board
- 9x2" max, any wood, any post processing
- Any software that creates gcode to be used on the AvidCNC router is fine
- Fusion 360, vCarve both have AvidCNC post processors for their output
- Easel's generic gcode output works fine. Verify speed control is set to automatic (and put in your spindle speed there)
- Mach 3 post processors in other design software should work fine as well. This is where "previewing your gcode" before running it comes into play
- Output in inches, not mm / cm
- We strongly recommend beginners use vCarve's "Avalon" tutorial to quickly get up to speed on basic design and camming for this project {{youtube>TqTHGEK6T6M?medium}}

===== Software for design (CAD) and gcode creation (CAM)=====
* vCarve - [[files we have a makerspace license for this]], and it can be installed on any machine running Windows. Great for 2d / 2.5d projects. [https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-pro Their training library is extensive]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Fusion 360] - multiplatform, cloud based storage, great for both cnc routing as well as 3d printing. Free license for personal use
* <del>[https://easel.inventables.com Easel] - free, browser based, simple. designed for their machines, but can output generic gcode to be used on other CNC routers. some features require a paid membership to use</del> 6-8-2022 - I can no longer recommend easel for our CNC router. The ways they've changed their gcode output, as well as the continued push for their pro license for basic functions, no longer positions it as a useful piece of software outside their own ecosystem
* [https://carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/ Carbide Create] - free, simple, multi platform. Very similar to Easel, just not cloud based. Has a pro license for certain features like 3d carving, but its free license is far more capable and less problematic than Easel has become

===== End Mills =====
{{youtube>wdQ-_hllmKY?}}
==== Size ====
* We have collets for 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/8" shank end mills
* **DO NOT** use end mills with metric sized shanks
* Bigger shanks are better! Shanks often are larger than the cutting diameter
* Keep in mind how deep you plan to cut as well. Even when the shank matches cutting diameter, you shouldn't be rubbing it against what you just cut
* Less is more when it comes to cutting lengths. They deflect less, and you can increase your feed rate
==== Feeds and Speeds ====
* Feed rate: How fast the machine is pushing the end mill around the cutting area
* Speed rate: How fast the spindle is turning the end mill
* Other factors that affect your cutting ability:
* Depth per pass - most feed and speed guides assume a depth of 1xtool diameter. Going deeper will need you to reduce speed
* Stepover - rule of thumb is 1/2 diameter for pocketing operations. Smaller stepovers can can improve surface finish, while increasing machining time
* Chip load - how much material you're actually removing per flute, per revolution. Feeds and speeds can be increased or decreased while maintaining this ratio. Keeping within spec can prolong the life of your end mill
* **WHAT SETTINGS DO I USE??????**
* Consult the manufacturer recommended feeds and speeds for the end mill you've selected. That is not necessarily the hardest you can push that tool - these are starting points, and this turns into an art over a science, quickly
* I will often use settings from another manufacturer for a similar, cheaper tool from Amazon. If tool diameters / lengths / geometry / number of flutes match, this will often work fine
==== Inexpensive ====
SpeTools: [https://www.amazon.com/stores/SpeTool/page/E41053B5-94C6-45AD-9B30-6961538AAED2 Amazon]
==== High Quality ====
Amana Tools: [https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits.html ToolsToday]\\
I recommend the AMS-119 3 piece starter pack: https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14325-ams-119.html
==== Can be bought locally ====
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/cnc-carving-bits Woodcraft] in Lexington - sells Whiteside and Freud
* Lowes / Home Depot - some vcarving and straight end mills available
* **DO NOT** use end mills with guide bearings

Wood-shop-orientation

2024-02-25T16:22:08Z

Bereamakers:

====== Wood Shop Orientation ======

The order of this document is roughly the order you will walk through the woodshop during the training. This orientation assumes that they have gone through our general space orientation.

Do not operate any power equipment if you are under the influence of anything, in a hurry, are tired, or are not feeling well.

Inspect the equipment before using.

==== General Safety ====
* Attire
** Avoid loose clothes and hair
** Remove rings
** Wear close-toed shoes
** Don't wear gloves when operating power tools
* Wear Safety Glasses
* Wear respiratory protection when appropriate
* Hearing Protection for loud equipment or extended use
* Keep floors clean, clear, and dry
** Keep extension cords off of the floor when not in use
* Don't throw oily rags in the trash can
* Store finishes in the yellow cabinet
* Don't eat and drink around power tools
* Be aware of people around you when using equipment, and don't approach others

===== Dust Collection =====
* Use dust collection!
* There will still be fines in the air when dust collection is on. For extended operation or for messy operations, like routing MDF, you may want to wear respiratory protection.
* General ventilation fan can be turned on as well.

- When dust is visible in the barrel, please empty it. Dust is put loose in the dumpster between our building and Barnett Heating & Air. You can bag it if you would prefer or are taking it home.
- //Demonstrate detaching and re-attaching dust barrel//
- Don't run the dust collector when the barrel is not attached.
- //Demonstrate turning on the dust collector//
- Ensure that the gates are set properly for the equipment you are using.
- //Show the other dust collection systems in the space//

===== Air Compressor =====
* Stays off when not in use.
* Uses Industrial couplings
* Change desiccant if necessary //Demonstrate removal and reattachment//
* Air tools are in the drawer under the bench
** Nailer/Stapler
** Pin Nailer
** Blow Gun

==== Turn On ====
- Nozzle on the bottom should face forward in the closed position
- Red button turns it on
- Two separate pressure gauges.
-- Line pressure is adjustable with the knob.
-- Tank pressure should start rising

==== Turn Off ====
- Turn compressor off
- Turn regulator knob to 0 to clear line pressure
- Open bottom nozzle to empty tank

===== Miter Saw =====

* The miter saw is used to make rough cuts to length and to quickly cut angles.
* There are end stops on the fence
* You shouldn't need to clamp the workpiece, but can if you prefer.

- Mark the cut on the piece
- Match the blade to the mark
- Left hand holds the piece against the fence. **Keep clear of blade**
- Right hand thumb on safety, squeeze trigger.
- Dust collection will turn on automatically
- Bring blade down and up in one motion
- If the piece is large, watch out for pinching on the blade.

//Have members demonstrate usage with a test cut, if necessary//

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fjHvYy5lkg Miter Saw for Beginners]

===== Bandsaw =====

* Larger blades are for resawing, smaller blades can do tighter curves. Bring your own for special use.
* Many adjustments are possible, avoid them unless you are changing the blade.
* The main things to adjust are the fence, guard release lever, and guard height wheel.

- Make sure the blade is tensioned. With the machine OFF, see if there is any give in the blade. If so, flip the blade tension lever on the back.
- Adjust guard to the height of your workpiece
- Set fence
- Turn dust collector on (adjust gates as necessary)
- Turn bandsaw on
- Run piece through the blade, keeping fingers clear. Long pieces may need support from the back.
- Turn bandsaw off

//Have user demonstrate a test cut// \\
//Demonstrate the floor cleanout next to the bandsaw//

===== Planer =====

* The planer is used for milling boards to a desired thickness. This is often referred to as 'flattening' a board, but it's not quite that simple. A planer won't fix warped boards.
* You can use a jig to correct warp and twist in boards if you don't want to use the jointer.
* Ensure there is no metal in the board you are milling
* Scrub dirt and dust off of the board prior to milling
* Patience is important - make small cuts over multiple passes.
* Support the ends of long pieces to avoid snipe.
* The planer is loud and produces a lot of dust. Wear hearing protection and use dust collection.
* Make sure you have enough outfeed space for your board.

- Unlock the carriage and adjust the height so that the workpiece moves the rollers.
- Lock the height
- Adjust the gates and turn on the dust collector
- Turn on planer
- Feed the board into the planer with the grain at a slight angle. Make sure it is flat on the table.
- Let board come through and slide free.
- Turn off planer and DC.

//Have user demonstrate a test pass//

===== Drill Press =====

* The drill press can make repeatable and angled holes, as well as use specialty, higher torque bits like Forstner bits.
* Depth stops can be adjusted for repeatable depth.
* Speed can be adjusted by changing the belts.
* Table height can be adjusted by the wheel on the side.
* Bring your own bits if the ones in the shop don't meet requirements.
* There is a sacrificial insert to back up your cut. Use it, but don't drill all the way through it. Replace it if necessary.

===== Jointer =====
* The other part of milling lumber. Jointers are for squaring a board's face and edge.
* Use hearing protection.
* Use push sticks for thin pieces.
* You shouldn't need to adjust the table. Don't unless you know what you are doing.
* Guide board against the fence,
** **Apply downward pressure on the outfeed table only.** Not over the blade, not on infeed.
* Don't leave a hand pushing on the back of the board.
* Do research about how to correct different board defects.
* Once one corner is square, use the tablesaw and planer to create a four square board

//Have user demonstrate a test pass//

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwbVIqOVMDk Using the jointer]

===== Table Saw =====
* Remove splitter for dado or shallow grooves
* Raise blade height to just above piece.
* Lower blade when finished.
* Change blade between fine finish, rip, and general if you want
** Inserts match to saw blade. If changing blade, use default insert or matching zero-clearance insert.
** Threads are opposite of normal
** When changing blade don't lose the bolt and washer down into the saw - a pain to get out
* Unplug saw and move extension cord when you are done
* Sweep off steel top with a brush, not oily hands

==== General Safety ====
* Keep left hand away from blade, preferably away from the board also
* Use push sticks and blocks.
* Push piece down and towards the fence with right hand/block, keep left hand clear
* Don't mess with the offcut until the saw is off

==== Rip Cut ====

* Rip cuts are made with the grain of a board (cutting longways)
* Be wary of warped wood. It can pinch the blade and kick back.
* Make sure you are using the splitter on the saw
* Use proper outfeed support for long boards

- Consider changing to a rip-cut blade (especially if wood is thick, gnarly, or on the wet side)
- Line up fence to the appropriate measurement and lock it down.
- Adjust blade height to just above the blade
- Turn dust collection on
- Turn saw on
- Stand slightly to the side of the blade (not directly behind it)
- Using a push block with the right hand to hold the board down and against the fence, push the board until it is cut through.
- Continue pushing the board against the fence until it is past the blade.
- **don't mess with the offcut**
- turn the saw off

//Have user demonstrate a test cut with scrap MDF or plywood//

==== Cross Cut ====
* Cross cuts are made when you are cutting against the grain (or across the short dimension of a board)
* Use crosscut sled
* Watch thumbs where blade comes through sled
* Make sure the piece and sled are clear of the fence during operation
* Grooves and dados can also be cut with repeated passes.

- Turn dust collection on
- Put sled on table
- Raise blade height to just above workpiece
- **with saw off** line up piece with the blade, then hold or clamp piece against the fence
- Turn on saw
- With hands on either side of sled fence, **clear of the blade kerf**, slide sled forward and back in one motion, pulling back as soon as the blade is through the piece.
- Turn off saw

//Have user demonstrate a test cut with a scrap 2x4//

==== Miter Cut ====
* Use the Incra miter gauge to cut arbitrary angles. Using the Miter Saw might be simpler.
* Usage is similar to the crosscut sled.

- Adjust blade height to just above piece
- Adjust miter gauge to correct angle
- Measure piece against the **stopped** blade and clamp piece to the miter gauge fence
- Ensure table saw fence is clear of the workpiece
- Hold fence, gauge, and piece around the miter gauge, which should be to the left of the saw blade
- **Do NOT** hold the piece to the right of the blade
- Move gauge and piece forward through the blade and back in one motion

===== Router Table =====
* No loose clothing, loose hair, or loose jewelry. No rings.
* Produces LOTS of dust. Respiratory protection recommended. Clean up after yourself.
* Router bits are your responsibility
* //Demonstrate loading and unloading router bits//
* Multiple passes will help with overloading the router and burning
* Leave a very small final pass for a clean finish

- Align the fence with the bit.
- Set up a fingerboard if downward or sideways pressure will be hard to do safely
- Turn on dust collection
- Turn on router
- Pass material through evenly, with the bit rotating towards you and cutting with the grain
- Turn router off

===== Extra =====

* Sharpening Station
* Sanding
** Don't push so hard you slow or stop the belt.
** Use wax stick to clean belt
** Clean up dust afterwards
* Wood Storage - label if wood is claimed, don't leave for long
* Track saw is useful for safe, straight cuts on weird or large pieces
* The scroll saw is like a slow bandsaw, or an automated fret saw. There are some extra blades, bring more if you need different characteristics.
* We have a lot of woodworking books in the library. Check it out!
* Orientation document is on the wiki
* In-progress project storage is ok if it is not in the way and is labeled
* There are lockers available for smaller project storage

//Remind members that the orientation documents are on the wiki// \\
[ ] //Sign authorized member list//

Wood-shop-orientation

2024-02-25T16:20:42Z

Bereamakers:

====== Wood Shop Orientation ======

The order of this document is roughly the order you will walk through the woodshop during the training. This orientation assumes that they have gone through our general space orientation.

Do not operate any power equipment if you are under the influence of anything, in a hurry, are tired, or are not feeling well.

Inspect the equipment before using.

==== General Safety ====
* Attire
** Avoid loose clothes and hair
* Remove rings
* Wear close-toed shoes
* Don't wear gloves when operating power tools
* Wear Safety Glasses
* Wear respiratory protection when appropriate
* Hearing Protection for loud equipment or extended use
* Keep floors clean, clear, and dry
* Keep extension cords off of the floor when not in use
* Don't throw oily rags in the trash can
* Store finishes in the yellow cabinet
* Don't eat and drink around power tools
* Be aware of people around you when using equipment, and don't approach others

===== Dust Collection =====
* Use dust collection!
* There will still be fines in the air when dust collection is on. For extended operation or for messy operations, like routing MDF, you may want to wear respiratory protection.
* General ventilation fan can be turned on as well.

- When dust is visible in the barrel, please empty it. Dust is put loose in the dumpster between our building and Barnett Heating & Air. You can bag it if you would prefer or are taking it home.
- //Demonstrate detaching and re-attaching dust barrel//
- Don't run the dust collector when the barrel is not attached.
- //Demonstrate turning on the dust collector//
- Ensure that the gates are set properly for the equipment you are using.
- //Show the other dust collection systems in the space//

===== Air Compressor =====
* Stays off when not in use.
* Uses Industrial couplings
* Change desiccant if necessary //Demonstrate removal and reattachment//
* Air tools are in the drawer under the bench
* Nailer/Stapler
* Pin Nailer
* Blow Gun

==== Turn On ====
- Nozzle on the bottom should face forward in the closed position
- Red button turns it on
- Two separate pressure gauges.
- Line pressure is adjustable with the knob.
- Tank pressure should start rising

==== Turn Off ====
- Turn compressor off
- Turn regulator knob to 0 to clear line pressure
- Open bottom nozzle to empty tank

===== Miter Saw =====

* The miter saw is used to make rough cuts to length and to quickly cut angles.
* There are end stops on the fence
* You shouldn't need to clamp the workpiece, but can if you prefer.

- Mark the cut on the piece
- Match the blade to the mark
- Left hand holds the piece against the fence. **Keep clear of blade**
- Right hand thumb on safety, squeeze trigger.
- Dust collection will turn on automatically
- Bring blade down and up in one motion
- If the piece is large, watch out for pinching on the blade.

//Have members demonstrate usage with a test cut, if necessary//

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fjHvYy5lkg Miter Saw for Beginners]

===== Bandsaw =====

* Larger blades are for resawing, smaller blades can do tighter curves. Bring your own for special use.
* Many adjustments are possible, avoid them unless you are changing the blade.
* The main things to adjust are the fence, guard release lever, and guard height wheel.

- Make sure the blade is tensioned. With the machine OFF, see if there is any give in the blade. If so, flip the blade tension lever on the back.
- Adjust guard to the height of your workpiece
- Set fence
- Turn dust collector on (adjust gates as necessary)
- Turn bandsaw on
- Run piece through the blade, keeping fingers clear. Long pieces may need support from the back.
- Turn bandsaw off

//Have user demonstrate a test cut// \\
//Demonstrate the floor cleanout next to the bandsaw//

===== Planer =====

* The planer is used for milling boards to a desired thickness. This is often referred to as 'flattening' a board, but it's not quite that simple. A planer won't fix warped boards.
* You can use a jig to correct warp and twist in boards if you don't want to use the jointer.
* Ensure there is no metal in the board you are milling
* Scrub dirt and dust off of the board prior to milling
* Patience is important - make small cuts over multiple passes.
* Support the ends of long pieces to avoid snipe.
* The planer is loud and produces a lot of dust. Wear hearing protection and use dust collection.
* Make sure you have enough outfeed space for your board.

- Unlock the carriage and adjust the height so that the workpiece moves the rollers.
- Lock the height
- Adjust the gates and turn on the dust collector
- Turn on planer
- Feed the board into the planer with the grain at a slight angle. Make sure it is flat on the table.
- Let board come through and slide free.
- Turn off planer and DC.

//Have user demonstrate a test pass//

===== Drill Press =====

* The drill press can make repeatable and angled holes, as well as use specialty, higher torque bits like Forstner bits.
* Depth stops can be adjusted for repeatable depth.
* Speed can be adjusted by changing the belts.
* Table height can be adjusted by the wheel on the side.
* Bring your own bits if the ones in the shop don't meet requirements.
* There is a sacrificial insert to back up your cut. Use it, but don't drill all the way through it. Replace it if necessary.

===== Jointer =====
* The other part of milling lumber. Jointers are for squaring a board's face and edge.
* Use hearing protection.
* Use push sticks for thin pieces.
* You shouldn't need to adjust the table. Don't unless you know what you are doing.
* Guide board against the fence,
* **Apply downward pressure on the outfeed table only.** Not over the blade, not on infeed.
* Don't leave a hand pushing on the back of the board.
* Do research about how to correct different board defects.
* Once one corner is square, use the tablesaw and planer to create a four square board

//Have user demonstrate a test pass//

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwbVIqOVMDk Using the jointer]

===== Table Saw =====
* Remove splitter for dado or shallow grooves
* Raise blade height to just above piece.
* Lower blade when finished.
* Change blade between fine finish, rip, and general if you want
* Inserts match to saw blade. If changing blade, use default insert or matching zero-clearance insert.
* Threads are opposite of normal
* When changing blade don't lose the bolt and washer down into the saw - a pain to get out
* Unplug saw and move extension cord when you are done
* Sweep off steel top with a brush, not oily hands

==== General Safety ====
* Keep left hand away from blade, preferably away from the board also
* Use push sticks and blocks.
* Push piece down and towards the fence with right hand/block, keep left hand clear
* Don't mess with the offcut until the saw is off

==== Rip Cut ====

* Rip cuts are made with the grain of a board (cutting longways)
* Be wary of warped wood. It can pinch the blade and kick back.
* Make sure you are using the splitter on the saw
* Use proper outfeed support for long boards

- Consider changing to a rip-cut blade (especially if wood is thick, gnarly, or on the wet side)
- Line up fence to the appropriate measurement and lock it down.
- Adjust blade height to just above the blade
- Turn dust collection on
- Turn saw on
- Stand slightly to the side of the blade (not directly behind it)
- Using a push block with the right hand to hold the board down and against the fence, push the board until it is cut through.
- Continue pushing the board against the fence until it is past the blade.
- **don't mess with the offcut**
- turn the saw off

//Have user demonstrate a test cut with scrap MDF or plywood//

==== Cross Cut ====
* Cross cuts are made when you are cutting against the grain (or across the short dimension of a board)
* Use crosscut sled
* Watch thumbs where blade comes through sled
* Make sure the piece and sled are clear of the fence during operation
* Grooves and dados can also be cut with repeated passes.

- Turn dust collection on
- Put sled on table
- Raise blade height to just above workpiece
- **with saw off** line up piece with the blade, then hold or clamp piece against the fence
- Turn on saw
- With hands on either side of sled fence, **clear of the blade kerf**, slide sled forward and back in one motion, pulling back as soon as the blade is through the piece.
- Turn off saw

//Have user demonstrate a test cut with a scrap 2x4//

==== Miter Cut ====
* Use the Incra miter gauge to cut arbitrary angles. Using the Miter Saw might be simpler.
* Usage is similar to the crosscut sled.

- Adjust blade height to just above piece
- Adjust miter gauge to correct angle
- Measure piece against the **stopped** blade and clamp piece to the miter gauge fence
- Ensure table saw fence is clear of the workpiece
- Hold fence, gauge, and piece around the miter gauge, which should be to the left of the saw blade
- **Do NOT** hold the piece to the right of the blade
- Move gauge and piece forward through the blade and back in one motion

===== Router Table =====
* No loose clothing, loose hair, or loose jewelry. No rings.
* Produces LOTS of dust. Respiratory protection recommended. Clean up after yourself.
* Router bits are your responsibility
* //Demonstrate loading and unloading router bits//
* Multiple passes will help with overloading the router and burning
* Leave a very small final pass for a clean finish

- Align the fence with the bit.
- Set up a fingerboard if downward or sideways pressure will be hard to do safely
- Turn on dust collection
- Turn on router
- Pass material through evenly, with the bit rotating towards you and cutting with the grain
- Turn router off

===== Extra =====

* Sharpening Station
* Sanding
* Don't push so hard you slow or stop the belt.
* Use wax stick to clean belt
* Clean up dust afterwards
* Wood Storage - label if wood is claimed, don't leave for long
* Track saw is useful for safe, straight cuts on weird or large pieces
* The scroll saw is like a slow bandsaw, or an automated fret saw. There are some extra blades, bring more if you need different characteristics.
* We have a lot of woodworking books in the library. Check it out!
* Orientation document is on the wiki
* In-progress project storage is ok if it is not in the way and is labeled
* There are lockers available for smaller project storage

//Remind members that the orientation documents are on the wiki// \\
[ ] //Sign authorized member list//

Wood-shop-orientation

2024-02-25T16:20:16Z

Bereamakers: Created page with "====== Wood Shop Orientation ====== The order of this document is roughly the order you will walk through the woodshop during the training. This orientation assumes that they have gone through our general space orientation. Do not operate any power equipment if you are under the influence of anything, in a hurry, are tired, or are not feeling well. Inspect the equipment before using. ==== General Safety ==== * Attire * Avoid loose clothes and hair * Remove rings *..."

====== Wood Shop Orientation ======

The order of this document is roughly the order you will walk through the woodshop during the training. This orientation assumes that they have gone through our general space orientation.

Do not operate any power equipment if you are under the influence of anything, in a hurry, are tired, or are not feeling well.

Inspect the equipment before using.

==== General Safety ====
* Attire
* Avoid loose clothes and hair
* Remove rings
* Wear close-toed shoes
* Don't wear gloves when operating power tools
* Wear Safety Glasses
* Wear respiratory protection when appropriate
* Hearing Protection for loud equipment or extended use
* Keep floors clean, clear, and dry
* Keep extension cords off of the floor when not in use
* Don't throw oily rags in the trash can
* Store finishes in the yellow cabinet
* Don't eat and drink around power tools
* Be aware of people around you when using equipment, and don't approach others

===== Dust Collection =====
* Use dust collection!
* There will still be fines in the air when dust collection is on. For extended operation or for messy operations, like routing MDF, you may want to wear respiratory protection.
* General ventilation fan can be turned on as well.

- When dust is visible in the barrel, please empty it. Dust is put loose in the dumpster between our building and Barnett Heating & Air. You can bag it if you would prefer or are taking it home.
- //Demonstrate detaching and re-attaching dust barrel//
- Don't run the dust collector when the barrel is not attached.
- //Demonstrate turning on the dust collector//
- Ensure that the gates are set properly for the equipment you are using.
- //Show the other dust collection systems in the space//

===== Air Compressor =====
* Stays off when not in use.
* Uses Industrial couplings
* Change desiccant if necessary //Demonstrate removal and reattachment//
* Air tools are in the drawer under the bench
* Nailer/Stapler
* Pin Nailer
* Blow Gun

==== Turn On ====
- Nozzle on the bottom should face forward in the closed position
- Red button turns it on
- Two separate pressure gauges.
- Line pressure is adjustable with the knob.
- Tank pressure should start rising

==== Turn Off ====
- Turn compressor off
- Turn regulator knob to 0 to clear line pressure
- Open bottom nozzle to empty tank

===== Miter Saw =====

* The miter saw is used to make rough cuts to length and to quickly cut angles.
* There are end stops on the fence
* You shouldn't need to clamp the workpiece, but can if you prefer.

- Mark the cut on the piece
- Match the blade to the mark
- Left hand holds the piece against the fence. **Keep clear of blade**
- Right hand thumb on safety, squeeze trigger.
- Dust collection will turn on automatically
- Bring blade down and up in one motion
- If the piece is large, watch out for pinching on the blade.

//Have members demonstrate usage with a test cut, if necessary//

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fjHvYy5lkg Miter Saw for Beginners]

===== Bandsaw =====

* Larger blades are for resawing, smaller blades can do tighter curves. Bring your own for special use.
* Many adjustments are possible, avoid them unless you are changing the blade.
* The main things to adjust are the fence, guard release lever, and guard height wheel.

- Make sure the blade is tensioned. With the machine OFF, see if there is any give in the blade. If so, flip the blade tension lever on the back.
- Adjust guard to the height of your workpiece
- Set fence
- Turn dust collector on (adjust gates as necessary)
- Turn bandsaw on
- Run piece through the blade, keeping fingers clear. Long pieces may need support from the back.
- Turn bandsaw off

//Have user demonstrate a test cut// \\
//Demonstrate the floor cleanout next to the bandsaw//

===== Planer =====

* The planer is used for milling boards to a desired thickness. This is often referred to as 'flattening' a board, but it's not quite that simple. A planer won't fix warped boards.
* You can use a jig to correct warp and twist in boards if you don't want to use the jointer.
* Ensure there is no metal in the board you are milling
* Scrub dirt and dust off of the board prior to milling
* Patience is important - make small cuts over multiple passes.
* Support the ends of long pieces to avoid snipe.
* The planer is loud and produces a lot of dust. Wear hearing protection and use dust collection.
* Make sure you have enough outfeed space for your board.

- Unlock the carriage and adjust the height so that the workpiece moves the rollers.
- Lock the height
- Adjust the gates and turn on the dust collector
- Turn on planer
- Feed the board into the planer with the grain at a slight angle. Make sure it is flat on the table.
- Let board come through and slide free.
- Turn off planer and DC.

//Have user demonstrate a test pass//

===== Drill Press =====

* The drill press can make repeatable and angled holes, as well as use specialty, higher torque bits like Forstner bits.
* Depth stops can be adjusted for repeatable depth.
* Speed can be adjusted by changing the belts.
* Table height can be adjusted by the wheel on the side.
* Bring your own bits if the ones in the shop don't meet requirements.
* There is a sacrificial insert to back up your cut. Use it, but don't drill all the way through it. Replace it if necessary.

===== Jointer =====
* The other part of milling lumber. Jointers are for squaring a board's face and edge.
* Use hearing protection.
* Use push sticks for thin pieces.
* You shouldn't need to adjust the table. Don't unless you know what you are doing.
* Guide board against the fence,
* **Apply downward pressure on the outfeed table only.** Not over the blade, not on infeed.
* Don't leave a hand pushing on the back of the board.
* Do research about how to correct different board defects.
* Once one corner is square, use the tablesaw and planer to create a four square board

//Have user demonstrate a test pass//

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwbVIqOVMDk Using the jointer]

===== Table Saw =====
* Remove splitter for dado or shallow grooves
* Raise blade height to just above piece.
* Lower blade when finished.
* Change blade between fine finish, rip, and general if you want
* Inserts match to saw blade. If changing blade, use default insert or matching zero-clearance insert.
* Threads are opposite of normal
* When changing blade don't lose the bolt and washer down into the saw - a pain to get out
* Unplug saw and move extension cord when you are done
* Sweep off steel top with a brush, not oily hands

==== General Safety ====
* Keep left hand away from blade, preferably away from the board also
* Use push sticks and blocks.
* Push piece down and towards the fence with right hand/block, keep left hand clear
* Don't mess with the offcut until the saw is off

==== Rip Cut ====

* Rip cuts are made with the grain of a board (cutting longways)
* Be wary of warped wood. It can pinch the blade and kick back.
* Make sure you are using the splitter on the saw
* Use proper outfeed support for long boards

- Consider changing to a rip-cut blade (especially if wood is thick, gnarly, or on the wet side)
- Line up fence to the appropriate measurement and lock it down.
- Adjust blade height to just above the blade
- Turn dust collection on
- Turn saw on
- Stand slightly to the side of the blade (not directly behind it)
- Using a push block with the right hand to hold the board down and against the fence, push the board until it is cut through.
- Continue pushing the board against the fence until it is past the blade.
- **don't mess with the offcut**
- turn the saw off

//Have user demonstrate a test cut with scrap MDF or plywood//

==== Cross Cut ====
* Cross cuts are made when you are cutting against the grain (or across the short dimension of a board)
* Use crosscut sled
* Watch thumbs where blade comes through sled
* Make sure the piece and sled are clear of the fence during operation
* Grooves and dados can also be cut with repeated passes.

- Turn dust collection on
- Put sled on table
- Raise blade height to just above workpiece
- **with saw off** line up piece with the blade, then hold or clamp piece against the fence
- Turn on saw
- With hands on either side of sled fence, **clear of the blade kerf**, slide sled forward and back in one motion, pulling back as soon as the blade is through the piece.
- Turn off saw

//Have user demonstrate a test cut with a scrap 2x4//

==== Miter Cut ====
* Use the Incra miter gauge to cut arbitrary angles. Using the Miter Saw might be simpler.
* Usage is similar to the crosscut sled.

- Adjust blade height to just above piece
- Adjust miter gauge to correct angle
- Measure piece against the **stopped** blade and clamp piece to the miter gauge fence
- Ensure table saw fence is clear of the workpiece
- Hold fence, gauge, and piece around the miter gauge, which should be to the left of the saw blade
- **Do NOT** hold the piece to the right of the blade
- Move gauge and piece forward through the blade and back in one motion

===== Router Table =====
* No loose clothing, loose hair, or loose jewelry. No rings.
* Produces LOTS of dust. Respiratory protection recommended. Clean up after yourself.
* Router bits are your responsibility
* //Demonstrate loading and unloading router bits//
* Multiple passes will help with overloading the router and burning
* Leave a very small final pass for a clean finish

- Align the fence with the bit.
- Set up a fingerboard if downward or sideways pressure will be hard to do safely
- Turn on dust collection
- Turn on router
- Pass material through evenly, with the bit rotating towards you and cutting with the grain
- Turn router off

===== Extra =====

* Sharpening Station
* Sanding
* Don't push so hard you slow or stop the belt.
* Use wax stick to clean belt
* Clean up dust afterwards
* Wood Storage - label if wood is claimed, don't leave for long
* Track saw is useful for safe, straight cuts on weird or large pieces
* The scroll saw is like a slow bandsaw, or an automated fret saw. There are some extra blades, bring more if you need different characteristics.
* We have a lot of woodworking books in the library. Check it out!
* Orientation document is on the wiki
* In-progress project storage is ok if it is not in the way and is labeled
* There are lockers available for smaller project storage

//Remind members that the orientation documents are on the wiki// \\
[ ] //Sign authorized member list//

Files

2024-02-25T16:11:43Z

Bereamakers:

This page is for links to files that anyone can access, like branding source files, flyers, space signage, templates, etc.

{{ :donated-labels-avery5366-8066.doc | Donated By labels - Avery 8066 or 5366}}

{{ :loaned-labels-avery5366-8066.doc | On Loan labels - Avery 8066 or 5366}}

[https://drive.google.com/drive/u/3/folders/0AItn3o7cCBcKUk9PVA Berea Makerspace Google Drive]

[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YMm_qjPQ-jGZFS6wUbdrP0NZyYWM_859/view?usp=sharing Rights and Responsibilities Document]

[https://workshop-buddy.com Workshop Buddy login.] If you click on this while on our machines, you should be in our pro account, with unlimited calculations and more active projects

[https://storage.vectric.com/VCarveProTrialEditionV11_SetupENU.exe vCarve Pro Trial software, for use with Makerspace license]\\
[https://www.amanatool.com/view-amana-tool-vectric-library Amana Tool Databases for vCarve]\\
As of 10/17/2020, we are using version **10.5**\\
{{ :vcarve_makerspace_id.png?nolink |}}

[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4855729 Bowl Blank STL for vcarve pro makerspace edition]. We don't have access to the clipart, so maker Jess designed this. Can be scaled on all axes for whatever size you need!